Date:         Sun, 14 Sep 2014 08:49:25 -0700
Reply-To:     Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Subject:      Re: seam rust
In-Reply-To:  <49ACAB5A-E3D4-4184-A96F-EEF973AA790C@NBNet.nb.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Brett,

I would strongly suggest pulling the cabinets to get at the inside of the seams. I know it's a bit of work.

I'm of the minds that you really can't get all the rust out from the seams. You do your best from the outside, a low viscosity rust converter does wick in the gap, but I really doubt you covert all the rust in there. 

Then seam sealing and painting. But there I'm going to suggest something that might be controversial. After the sealing and painting, and after you allow the stuff to fully cure, spray the inside of the seams with fluid film. Yes, it will creep out and collect dust on the outside in places, but you can wipe that off. 

I did that to my freshly painted and re sealed 82 van. I was amazed at how the stuff found its way out. Back when I did it (2001) hadn't found fluid film , I used krown. 

My hypothesis is... You can't expect to get all the rust out of the seams. A majority of the seam rust starts from the inside of the van. The rust will come back if you don't treat the inside of the van. Fluid film creeps into gaps amazingly well, having it in the seams will slow down rusting. Having to clean up the wet spots is not a chore. 

Good luck

Alistair



> On Sep 14, 2014, at 8:01 AM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA> wrote:
> 
> Brett,
> 
> That should work ... I like to paint all at once, after applying the sealer, but if you are rattle-can painting, it makes little difference on the materials side.
> 
> 
>> On 14-Sep-2014, at 11:43, Brett Ne wrote:
>> 
>> I'd never heard of fluid film, had to look it up.  I'm not going to treat

>> the the inside of the panel.  The Rivieras have cabinetry on the passenger
>> side, making access much less than fun.  The rust around the seam is pretty
>> minor and confined to 3 small areas, so I'm not overly worried about it;
>> just want to take reasonable precautions against future rust.  I've got a

>> tube of SEM brand seam sealer from the autobody store.  So, my planned
>> sequence looks something like this:
>> 
>> Take areas of concern to bare metal, clean out body seam, feather paint
>> edges. (done)
>> Inject Rust Mort into seam and let dry. (should be 90 today, easily done)

>> Apply body filler to panels & block sand, being careful to not get filler

>> in the seam.
>> Apply glaze to panel & block sand, being careful to not get glazing into
>> the seam.
>> Apply seam sealer.
>> Prime.
>> Touch up with glaze & reprime if anything isn't quite right enough. (my
>> standards are a bit low...this is a campmobile, not a showroom car)
>> Paint.
>> Go camping!
>> 
>> I'm assuming that since primer will absorb water, I will want to apply the
>> seam sealer directly to the metal before the primer.  I will only apply a

>> clear coat if the rattle can paint's gloss isn't as shiny as the current
>> paint, which doesn't have a clear coat.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Brett in Portland, OR
>> "Albert" '82 VanaFox I4 Riviera