Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (October 2014, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Thu, 16 Oct 2014 16:50:27 -0700
Reply-To:     Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Weird "idle" problem
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
In-Reply-To:  <5440454c.50288c0a.59f0.6ef7SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Thanks David, I've also been told to check the timing again, it could be a bad hall sensor. So, is that cover on the brain easily removed?

-----Original Message----- From: David Beierl [mailto:dbeierl@attglobal.net] Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 3:23 PM To: Stuart MacMillan Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com Subject: Re: Weird "idle" problem

At 12:44 PM 10/16/2014, Stuart MacMillan wrote: >I've checked the TPS with an ohm meter and it works fine, and the idle >valve hums. I can't find any vacuum leaks (propane torch probe), and >it was recently tuned up. So, is it possible for a bad Idle control >unit to cause this? It seems odd that an engine can run at 3000 with the throttle closed!

Stuart, the idle controller is subject to solder fatigue just like the ECU, and it has a lot fewer joints to reflow so it's well worth it to simply reflow everything rather than trying to find a 35X stereo scope to really look hard at the joints. You have to add a bit of clean 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core solder to each joint, and if you end up with too much use a soldersucker or braid to remove it and redo the joint.

Even before doing that, remove and replace the controller. You can look for corrosion on the terminals, and replugging it will exercise the connections nicely as the Faston type terminals have good scrubbing action.

Yours, David ps -- I have long ago seen a Jetta with a sticking idle valve cycle up to 2500 rpm and back every few seconds. I presume that its idle controller kept advancing the power until the valve unstuck, at which point it jumped up. Cleaning with solvents cured it, at least for the moment. Your symptoms do not sound like this if you're describing accurately, but rather a valve that's being actively driven to stay open.


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.