Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2015 21:56:47 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Radius Rod Landing on Frame
In-Reply-To: <CANY=VZYBk4OOsB_dKjTfLg6ah-6veP1STdnj7RtrisBaGLjqBA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
I have been using the yellow and are quite happy with them. The T3 kit includes an aluminum flange to guide the bushings. You can be creative and use 3 or 4 flat head screws to keep the aluminum flange in place and forgo the weld repair.
A good welder may be able to build up the hole and fit it around the T3 flange or a new front bushing. I have also cut out the mess and welded in 1-1/4" washers. You can also weld a washer on to what is there and add an equal thickness spacer to the bushing sleeve to maintain the proper compression.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Miguel Pacheco
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 11:33 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Radius Rod Landing on Frame
So there are two offerings from T3. A purple and a yellow radius rod bushing kit. I'm not looking to color coordinate or any cool factor. I'm interested to know which works best with the washer repair. Gracias
*Miguel*
*The free soul is rare, but you know it when you see it- basically because you feel good, very good, when you are near or with them. *
*- Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary*
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 2:11 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 1/20/15, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Neil, it looks like you .... welded it in on top of the old part.
>
> Hi Jim. Yes. This is what I did. I welded a new piece of plate to face
> of frame.
>
> > The washer technique would yield the same result--new metal for the
> > hole. The fact that the new part if thicker than or offset to the
> original
> > body metal can easily be compensated for by repositioning the
> > washers and nuts on the threaded end of the rod.
>
> For sure. Yes. Thanks. If we're talking about the castor setting, I
> understood that adding new metal plate to frame face wouldn't cause an
> issue in that regard.
>
> This is not a great image:
>
> https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/RadiusArmHoleBack.jpg
>
> but it shows a new bushing installed to the frame I repaired. The
> black arrow points to lip of the bushing which is not sitting flush to
> frame face.
>
> Granted this was my first time doing a radius rod bushing job but I
> assumed that in the case of an un-repaired OEM thickness frame, the
> bushing lip in frame hole ID should sit flush to face at other side of
> frame. It appeared to me that adding new metal plate to frame face
> would position the bushing so that the bushing lip in hole ID wasn't
> flush to frame face.
>
> Sorry for all the writing I'm doing but it is well intended. :)
>
>
> >
> > On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 1:51 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> On 1/20/15, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> > The WasherThickness Won't Cause a Prob' ~ Just need to be
> >> > sure
> >> that Washer
> >> > ID Matches the OD
> >> >
> >> > of the Step on the RubberBush' or the Alum'Bush if you use T3 ~
> >>
> >> Maybe I missed a detail in a post here or it wasn't made, or I'm
> >> just thick in the head, (LOL) but I'm assuming the washer in
> >> question would be welded to face of subframe as per repair I did. Image:
> >>
> >> https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/RadiusArmHoleFront.jpg
> >>
> >> (my welding has improved some since then. ha ha.)
> >>
> >> Are Miguel et al talking about welding a washer, or part of a
> >> washer, to ID of hole at frame?
> >>
> >
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
> Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca>
>
> 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy>
>
> 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical
> <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>
>
> Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>
>