Thanks for the help people. The arm is out. image: http://tinyurl.com/p649h45 For the sake of R&D, and my curiosity, I bought a rather pricey $28 carbide steel blade for my oscillating tool. This tool was great for getting in to the work area, and it cut the remaining bolts, but of course the blade suffered. image: http://tinyurl.com/pport4w Don't bother using a "wood metal" blade. BTDT. I'll be curious to see if the carbide blade lasts long enough to cut the bolts on driver side trailing arm. Part of the issue with getting at the trailing arm inboard bolt was not setting up my work properly. One of the jack stands was partly in the way making it harder to get at the inboard bolt with my 4.5" cut off wheel. Looking at the rusted out and repaired part of arm image: http://tinyurl.com/phpbpwv I'm impressed that the weldor in Pt. Townsend was able to get that patch on. I'd suggest it's well worth the time to wash these arms once in a while to clean off the mung and inspect them. Neil.
> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 12:58 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote: >> I'm cutting each bolt that holds the trailing arm to vehicle. (am >> doing trailing arm R&R) >>
-- Neil n Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca> 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy> 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/> Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay> |
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