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Date:         Tue, 20 Jan 2015 10:53:19 -0800
Reply-To:     Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Radius Rod Landing on Frame
Comments: To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <EB5FE6FA-5668-448D-8060-626AC083E446@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Thanks Jim. I'll take a closer look.

With my frame hole repair, the inner lip of one bushing did not sit flush with the frame hole face. After all parts were installed and compressed, that lip likely ended up contacting the other bushing face. But if I'd used thicker metal to repair the frame hole, wouldn't that position this lip even further away from the frame hole face possibly allowing that lip to prematurely wear?

I've only done a radius bushing replacement twice and am being very "picky" so could be totally wrong on my thoughts.

Without the T3 parts in hand, it's (sadly) hard for me to envision how the improvements might address added metal to repair the frame hole.

Neil.

On 1/20/15, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote: > Yes, those are the parts. It does not matter about the thickness of the > washer that you weld onto the frame of the car. All the adjustment takes > place on either side of those washers. Just take a look at the way the > original is constructed and you'll see what I mean. The whole rig can move > in or out is needed. The design. compensates for the thickness of the metal > and The position of the metal on either side or both sides of the body > material. Nothing to worry about thereas long as you get an alignment when > you're done. > > Jim > > > >> On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:12 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> I have ordered from T3. Very quick shipping. >> Are these the parts you refer to? >> >> http://www.t3technique.com/suspension-bushings/powerflex-suspension-bushings/radius-rod-bushings/ >> >> It looks to me like the parts would still require that the hole in sub >> frame not be worn out but I could be wrong. >> >> The washer idea is a good one but again I'd be curious as to how >> washer thickness affects position of parts. A large enough washer >> would be relatively thick? >> >>> On 1/20/15, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> In all this discussion on radius rods, I think that welding in washers >>> is >>> the way to go BUT you should take a look at the radius rod bushing kits >>> I >>> installed that come from T3 Techniques. Instead of having just two >>> dished >>> steel washers that can let the rod slip around in the hole, they have a >>> two-piece machined aluminum part that looks like it would do a much more >>> effective job of holding the rod in place, even if the hole was a bit >>> compromised. And then, of course, you get the excellent properties of >>> the >>> poly bushing itself. >>> >>> I am going from memory here from an install over a year ago, but I >>> recall >>> thinking at the time that they could keep someone from having to weld >>> washers in. >> >> >> -- >> Neil n >> >> Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca> >> >> 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy> >> >> 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical >> <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/> >> >> Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay> >

-- Neil n

Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca>

1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy>

1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>

Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>


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