http://www.t3technique.com/suspension-bushings/powerflex-suspension-bushings/radius-rod-bushings/
>
Them's the 1s ~
> It looks to me like the parts would still require that the hole in sub
> frame not be worn out but I could be wrong.
>
Correct ~ If hole is OutOfRound or BadlyRusted it Needs to be made to AsCloseTo OEM AsPossible ~
> The washer idea is a good one but again I'd be curious as to how
> washer thickness affects position of parts. A large enough washer
> would be relatively thick?
The WasherThickness Won't Cause a Prob' ~ Just need to be sure that Washer ID Matches the OD
of the Step on the RubberBush' or the Alum'Bush if you use T3 ~
ORR ~ DeanB
>
> On 1/20/15, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> In all this discussion on radius rods, I think that welding in washers is
>> the way to go BUT you should take a look at the radius rod bushing kits I
>> installed that come from T3 Techniques. Instead of having just two dished
>> steel washers that can let the rod slip around in the hole, they have a
>> two-piece machined aluminum part that looks like it would do a much more
>> effective job of holding the rod in place, even if the hole was a bit
>> compromised. And then, of course, you get the excellent properties of the
>> poly bushing itself.
>>
>> I am going from memory here from an install over a year ago, but I recall
>> thinking at the time that they could keep someone from having to weld
>> washers in.
>>
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
> Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca>
>
> 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy>
>
> 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>
>
> Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>
