Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2015 12:42:43 -0800
Reply-To: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Tool Suggestion? Re: Rear Trailing Arm Replacement Fun!
In-Reply-To: <BAY405-EAS209BC3FF8718DC3935361A1A0490@phx.gbl>
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Thanks for that heat tip Dennis. It really helped.
For other newbs like me, here's how I removed
the bushing with stuck bolt, from the trailing arm.
I know this stuff isn't "rocket surgery" but for folks with
limited tools, knowledge, shop space or type, I hope this helps
Since I wanted to avoid smoke and flames, I
hack sawed bushing lips off, drilled lengthwise holes
in bushing rubber, used WD-40 on drill bit.
Bushing didn't budge. Since my bench vice isn't
set up yet, I put arm "end on" to garage floor and
stabilized it. With fire extinguisher, small sledge hammer and
short piece of pipe nearby, I briefly heated
bushing end and arm metal around bushing
with a propane torch. When bushing *just* started to smoke and flame
I put the pipe on bushing end, chocked up on the hammer,
and hit the pipe. Bushing moved a little.
I then set up my propane torch on a table to hold heat
to arm metal. With two hands free, it was easy to knock
out the bushing.
There was a small flame and limited amount of smoke.
In hindsight, I should have better stabilized the propane
torch but i was very careful.
i have to wonder if the heat "pulled" the WD-40 between the
bushing rubber and arm metal.
This method (also works on front lower control arm bushings)
image: http://tinyurl.com/nclrw8b worked great to remove
other bushing. Chamfering the pipe lip ID allowed pipe it to sit nicely
on small shoulder at arm. The bushing *just* fit (loose)
into this WD-40 coated pipe. The PN on that Dynomax pipe tells me it's 2" pipe.
And yes, that's a radius rod bushing washer. It works
great.
Neil.
On 1/21/15, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Over the years I have dealt with bolts getting stuck inside sleeves quite
> often. The control arms and shocks. I get out the oxy-acetylene torch and
> water cans. The trick is to burn out the rubber in such a way the flames
> stay small. What a mess. Then with the rubber out of the way I burn the bolt
> and sleeve on the bolt head side. Of course you need to be careful not to
> damage the side flanges. Then the side with the nut removed will fall out.
>
--
Neil n
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