Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 16:12:45 -0800
Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Tips on replacing Temp 2 sensor The easy way!
In-Reply-To: <CA+r=JhpchfoW5gZpJP+k=Z3Hodhz83TeOz8d3Dkj7gz_KTzJBQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Early on I did check the resistance and it looked within range, but I didn’t use my IR gun.
Frankly, it’s easier to just replace a $13 part and a $55 part and eliminate two more variables.
I’ll be down to the idle control valve and the Hall sender soon, I’ve never seen a hall sender fail in any other way than “completely” though.
If I can’t sort it out I’ll take it to Eion to fix, but then I’d have to kill myself for being old and useless.
Thanks though!
Stuart
From: Larry Alofs [mailto:lalofs@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2015 4:03 PM
To: Stuart MacMillan
Cc: vanagonlist a
Subject: Re: Tips on replacing Temp 2 sensor The easy way!
Maybe you could try measuring the resistance of the sensor while it's in place. Unplug the connector and hook up your ohmmeter. Check the temp of the thermostat housing with your IR thermometer and compare the readings to the chart in the Bentley.
Warm it up and repeat to get more data.
Just a thought...
Larry A.
On Mon, Jan 26, 2015 at 6:52 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dennis, I'll likely be contacting you.
This engine runs strong, much stronger than my '85, it's just had idle
problems (2000 rpm or nothing), after that was fixed it started to cut out
under load around 30 mph and above, fixed that, and now it's got the
problems I mentioned earlier.
Yesterday I checked the timing and set the idle (again). I was not able to
start the vehicle with the temp 2, O2, and idle control valve all unplugged,
but plugging them in I could start it, and I unplugged the temp 2 and ICV to
set the timing to 900 or so, and turning the screw gave me a good rpm
response.
Then I plugged in the ICV and the idle went up to about 950-1000, and then I
plugged in the T2 sensor, and the idle got slightly rough, like it was rich.
It smelled rich.
Test drove it, drove fine, and the idle was stable, but a bit over 1000.
The parts are cheap, and he wants to replace EVERYTHING anyway given his
lack of faith (and experience) in old cars. He's been spoiled by modern
vehicles that never fail. I can't blame him.
Rock Auto has the Bosch OEM O2 sensor for $55 delivered, BTW.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Haynes [mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2015 3:12 PM
To: 'Stuart MacMillan'; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Cc: 'Jim Felder'; 'Neil N'; 'OlRivrRat'
Subject: RE: Tips on replacing Temp 2 sensor The easy way!
Part of the problem here is the replacing of parts without real trouble
shooting and diagnosis. There are many things that can cause your symptoms
including an engine problem or maybe even vacuum leaks. About two years ago
one of our list members was down in Florida with all sorts of problems. He
had swapped out many fuel injection parts to no avail. Since I was nearby I
offered to pay a visit to see if I could help. As soon as the engine started
I knew something inside was wrong. Since the #1 intake runner was getting
warm I started there. I removed the rocker cover and there was the intake
valve spring lying on the bottom. The valve stem wore the point the spring
keepers fell off and the valve just stayed open. That is just one example.
As for running rich that can be tested with the O2 sensor. If you smell
unburned fuel the mixture could be right but for some reason all cylinders
are not firing. The idle stabilizer system is a separate add on. It can be
disabled and you should be able to get the engine running without it. Every
part of this fuel injection and ignition system can be tested and the real
problem sorted out. If I can be of assistance let me know.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart MacMillan [mailto:stuartmacm@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2015 3:01 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Cc: 'Jim Felder'; 'Neil N'; OlRivrRat; Dennis Haynes
Subject: RE: Tips on replacing Temp 2 sensor The easy way!
Great tips, thanks all!
Unfortunately, there have been so many run problems with this van (he's been
stranded twice) my son has no confidence in it, which is unfortunate, since
I encouraged him to buy it. So, with these last two items I'll have
replaced almost everything:
Starter (Go Westy gear reduction)
Alternator
Alternator wiring to starter (Go Westy kit)
Grounds: Cleaned connections in engine compartment, replaced battery ground
strap and checked transmission ground strap Fuel lines Fuel pump & filter
Set throttle switch Cleaned throttle body Checked AFM resistance Checked for
vacuum leaks Rebuilt injectors Replaced idle control module Capacitor fix in
AFM New tune-up parts and set timing PO put in a GT rebuild AT, water pump,
battery, and replaced the fuel tank vent lines and grommets.
Only thing left after O2 and Temp 2 is the idle control valve, which checks
out as far as I can tell.
I'm hoping we can drive it around town for a few hundred miles and get he
gets his confidence back with "everything new".
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Haynes [mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2015 11:11 AM
To: 'Stuart MacMillan'; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: RE: Tips on replacing Temp 2 sensor The easy way!
Engine cold
Pinch hose or plug overflow vent on pressure cap. If air can't get in
coolant won't flow out.
Prep new sensor with O-ring.
Remove clip.
Quickly remove sensor, look for O-ring. Reach in and remove if stuck.
Insert new sensor with O-ring.
Insert clip.
Remove plug/cap.
Remove pressure cap. Top off coolant.
Replace cap and connect hose.
Done.
You should only loose a quart or so this way.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Stuart MacMillan
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2015 11:54 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Tips on replacing Temp 2 sensor
Still chasing bugs in my son's '87, and I'm going to replace it and the O2
sensor. It's got erratic high idle, stumbling when cold, and I think it's
running rich when warmed up.
Just wondering if there is a way to minimize coolant loss.
There are a lot of pipes into the T-stat housing, and I can't clamp them all
off. And, does the O-ring tend to stay in the bore and need to be hooked
out, or will it come out with the old sender? I'm going to replace it.
I may just use this as an excuse to flush and replace the coolant if I'm
going to lose a lot anyway.
Thanks!
Stuart
