Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2015 10:46:51 -0800
Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Removing stuck O2 sensor
In-Reply-To: <BAY405-EAS1921CF18D269BC18EC2E333A03C0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
It's really more of a low idle when cold that causes off-idle stumble for
the first few minutes. I set the idle to 850 and it comes up 50-100 rpm
when the ICU is plugged back in, and then lopes +- 100 rpm. All grounds
have been checked and cleaned, and the T2 socket is good (this is a rust
free California/Oregon van). Only original parts are the idle control valve
(which hums, but not all the time, should it?), PCV valve (could that cause
the problem?), and the Hall sender.
I've installed rebuilt injectors, as well as a used ICU (original had a
burned component), Temp 2 sensor, adjusted the TB switch & cleaned the TB,
fuel pump and filter, all new tune up parts, but carbon on the intake valves
is a possibility. We will be running top tier gas and see what happens, or
we may just have to live with it.
After a great experience with a rebuilt 2.1 upgrade in my '84 15 years ago,
I wish I could just replace all this unnecessary complication with the 1.9's
Digijet injection system until we can do a Subaru conversion.
The Digifant system is just an overly complicated attempt at keeping an
obsolete and inefficient engine in production for too long.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Haynes [mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2015 9:23 PM
To: 'Stuart MacMillan'; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: RE: Removing stuck O2 sensor
For the stumble when cold you need to look at the injectors for spray
pattern and check for excessive deposits on the intake valves and possibly
worn intake guides. For the idle hunt this is sometimes common. What is the
idle speed with the idle valve unplugged? This should be about 800 on a warm
engine. The idle valve needs to always provide some boost to be ultimate
control. Normally they shoot for somewhere between 850-950 rpm. For the
temp 2 sensor I find that many of the aftermarket ones are not quit right
and bad ones come in batches. The OEM ones rarely go bad. Most of the time
problems with this circuit are due to the connector or the wiring near it. A
bad ground on this circuit creates a lot of havoc as it is shared with the
ECU and idle speed controller.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart MacMillan [mailto:stuartmacm@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 1, 2015 11:04 PM
To: 'Dennis Haynes'; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: RE: Removing stuck O2 sensor
Well, maybe I will leave it as is, this van is exempt from testing. I still
have a cold running stumble, and a slight idle surging when warm (900-1000,
up and down) after the temp 2 sensor replacement. I'm pretty much out of
options now, but I'll look for a vacuum leak before I turn it over to a
shop.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Haynes [mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2015 5:47 PM
To: 'Stuart MacMillan'; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: RE: Removing stuck O2 sensor
It's not the lift, but having the oxy acetylene torch and knowing how to use
it. I last wasted money on the Map gas torch some 25 years ago. It is really
limited to brazing soft materials. Need to get steel red hot fast, your need
the real deal. Must be nice to live in an area where a shop will remove a
catalyst. Without the cat you may not need the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is
there to make the cat do its job.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Stuart MacMillan
Sent: Sunday, February 1, 2015 1:50 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Removing stuck O2 sensor
You can do that because you have a lift! I've given up. Tried MAP gas with
an O2 sensor crow's foot tool and could only get it 1/8th turn. At least
NAPA loans those tools, but 7/8" is too big, and rounded the corners.
If the treads are buggered, the shop can replace the cat with a pipe & bung,
I don't need it.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Wolz [mailto:wolzphoto@q.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2015 12:23 AM
To: Stuart MacMillan
Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Removing stuck O2 sensor
I use a Stilson wrench and a four foot heavy pipe as a cheater.
Karl Wolz
Sent from my electronic umbilicus
> On Jan 31, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
wrote:
>
> Well, first attempts with a 22mm box wrench and heat have failed.
> Should I break it off and use a regular 22mm socket? Get a 7/8"
> special O2 sensor socket, which is slightly larger, so I can put a
> long bar on it? Take it
to
> a muffler shop?
>
>
>
> Other ideas?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Stuart
