Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2016 09:33:28 -0800
Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_75_kNK3VxMT4z1KnD2=BE_2FLO0NPgHYtP4z+Q5pFuRQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Yes, it makes it literally a five minute job. Open both heater valves fully, attach the bong, remove the radiator vent screw completely, fill the bong with diluted coolant until it dribbles out the radiator and replace the screw. Drain the bong, remove, and you are done. Check and top off the overflow tank after a few trips, the inevitable small bubbles will work their way out.
I've marked the level where the radiator is full on bong drain tube, and the tube goes down the bong right to the top of the expansion bottle, so it's topped off when you drain the bong.
Search The Samba for "Libby bong."
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2016 7:55 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
Draining the cooling system works per BENPLACE. I have a question about
refilling it.
Can using a "coolant bong" fill it sufficiently without all this bleeding
stuff, at least to the point you can run it without overheating, watching
the temp and coolant level light all the time and maybe add a little more
coolant to the expansion tank as required after the thermostat opens?
John
On Feb 12, 2016 18:27, "Larry Alofs" <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
> Rick,
> If you haven't become familiar with the bleeder bolt on the top of the
> radiator it is certainly time that you did so. Remove your upper grill and
> you will see it at the upper corner of the radiator on the passenger side.
> If it is the original screw, you do not need to remove it completely to
> allow the air to escape; just screw it out about 3 threads or so. To bleed
> out air the system must have pressure in it; else you will just be letting
> in more air.
> If the pressure cap on your expansion tank works properly there will be
> pressure whenever the system is fully warm. Else you have to add pressure
> by some other means. When the system is hot and pressurized, crack open
> the bleeder and listen for escaping air and watch for coolant flow. Close
> it back up and repeat again later if you wish.
> This is an essential step any time the cooling system has been opened. A
> significant amount of air in the top part of the radiator can cetainly
> reduce its effectiveness and cause high operating temperatures.
>
> Larry A.
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 7:12 PM, Rick Cooper <rickdcooper@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Two days ago I replaced the big coolant pipe that runs along the LH side
> of
> > the engine (from pump to thermostat area) since it had rust bubbles
> > happening. Put on a nice shiny stainless steel one from Frank Condelli (
> >
> >
> http://www.frankcondelli.com/staging1/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_93_95&product_id=367
> > ).
> > At the same time I put in a new thermostat rated for 87 degrees C,
> > though I'm not sure why -- guess I was tired of a lousy heater.
> >
> > Yesterday I did a 100 mile journey and the temp gauge stayed around the
> 3/4
> > to 7/8 position, maybe a needle's width from the high end of the gauge.
> > This seems high, from what I've read here. I'm wondering whether I've
> bled
> > all the air out of the cooling system and it is running inefficiently. I
> > lost about a gallon of coolant in replacing the pipe and think I've
> > replaced about that much. I also topped up the reservoir a couple times
> > after warming up the engine. This morning (day after my journey), the
> > reservoir was down a couple of inches so I've topped it up again.
> >
> > But I've read here about raising the front of the vehicle and removing a
> > bleeder cap on the rad. Should I do that and add coolant there?
> >
> > Thanks, Rick
> >
>
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