Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2016 08:48:59 -0500
Reply-To: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_75_kNK3VxMT4z1KnD2=BE_2FLO0NPgHYtP4z+Q5pFuRQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
John, forget all of that bleeding stuff. Use this device and it will allow
you to check for leaks (vacuum mode) and then fill the system without any
jacking, bleeding, etc. Gets all of the air out of the system the first
time, every time. Been using it for about 2 years now and it works
flawlessly every time. Just got tired of the bleeding process, spilling
coolant, hot coolant overflowing, etc.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QFDRS0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01
HTH,
Ken
On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 10:55 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Draining the cooling system works per BENPLACE. I have a question about
> refilling it.
>
> Can using a "coolant bong" fill it sufficiently without all this bleeding
> stuff, at least to the point you can run it without overheating, watching
> the temp and coolant level light all the time and maybe add a little more
> coolant to the expansion tank as required after the thermostat opens?
>
> John
> On Feb 12, 2016 18:27, "Larry Alofs" <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Rick,
> > If you haven't become familiar with the bleeder bolt on the top of the
> > radiator it is certainly time that you did so. Remove your upper grill
> and
> > you will see it at the upper corner of the radiator on the passenger
> side.
> > If it is the original screw, you do not need to remove it completely to
> > allow the air to escape; just screw it out about 3 threads or so. To
> bleed
> > out air the system must have pressure in it; else you will just be
> letting
> > in more air.
> > If the pressure cap on your expansion tank works properly there will be
> > pressure whenever the system is fully warm. Else you have to add
> pressure
> > by some other means. When the system is hot and pressurized, crack open
> > the bleeder and listen for escaping air and watch for coolant flow.
> Close
> > it back up and repeat again later if you wish.
> > This is an essential step any time the cooling system has been
> opened. A
> > significant amount of air in the top part of the radiator can cetainly
> > reduce its effectiveness and cause high operating temperatures.
> >
> > Larry A.
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 7:12 PM, Rick Cooper <rickdcooper@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Two days ago I replaced the big coolant pipe that runs along the LH
> side
> > of
> > > the engine (from pump to thermostat area) since it had rust bubbles
> > > happening. Put on a nice shiny stainless steel one from Frank
> Condelli (
> > >
> > >
> >
> http://www.frankcondelli.com/staging1/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_93_95&product_id=367
> > > ).
> > > At the same time I put in a new thermostat rated for 87 degrees C,
> > > though I'm not sure why -- guess I was tired of a lousy heater.
> > >
> > > Yesterday I did a 100 mile journey and the temp gauge stayed around the
> > 3/4
> > > to 7/8 position, maybe a needle's width from the high end of the gauge.
> > > This seems high, from what I've read here. I'm wondering whether I've
> > bled
> > > all the air out of the cooling system and it is running
> inefficiently. I
> > > lost about a gallon of coolant in replacing the pipe and think I've
> > > replaced about that much. I also topped up the reservoir a couple
> times
> > > after warming up the engine. This morning (day after my journey), the
> > > reservoir was down a couple of inches so I've topped it up again.
> > >
> > > But I've read here about raising the front of the vehicle and removing
> a
> > > bleeder cap on the rad. Should I do that and add coolant there?
> > >
> > > Thanks, Rick
> > >
> >
>
--
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
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