Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 17:06:30 -0800
Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: fridge puzzle
In-Reply-To: <BAY405-EAS15522365B1371DCCE4C4144A0220@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Poor man's manometer for checking propane pressure:
3' piece of 1x4
6' to 8' piece of clear vinyl tubing that will tightly fit over the gas pipe flared end, probably 1/2" ID.
Four electrical wiring staples
Water
Make the tube into a "U" about 30" deep with one side that length, and staple it to the board. Fill the U half full of water and keep it vertical. Connect the long tube to the appliance gas pipe and turn on the gas at the tank.
The difference in column height should be 11" for proper gas pressure. Adjust the regulator until you get 11".
I did this many years ago and had a 9" column I adjusted to 11". The stove works fine on low pressure, but the fridge doesn't. It won't light if the pressure is too high either.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Haynes
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 2:25 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: fridge puzzle
When you say BBQ gas bottle are you referring to a tank with a regulator or a disposable can? When working with propane appliances you need a pressure gauge, (manometer) as part of the test set up. Not having that is worse than doing electrical troubleshooting without a meter or test light.
Usually the inability to get the fridge lighted has to do with the air supply as much or more so than the gas. No air, no flame. This is a draft problem. Also you need to ensure all parts of the exhaust flue are in place and that the exhaust does no suck back into the inlet. The center disc needs to be tight fit. On the bench you get away with more. With the wall of the van there you need the outlet and inlet to be separated. Everything needs to be sealed so all exhaust creates suction for fresh air in. I have seen a number of exhaust pipes get rust holes or leak where connected to the top of the chamber. These conditions will keep the fridge from working and if you do get it to light you can get fumes inside the van.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of thewestyman
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 4:17 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: fridge puzzle
I took my fridge out of the van. It would not light up. Put it up on a table, connected a bbq gas bottle to it, and then it lighted up fine. Took the burning chamber off, cleaned it out, checked the spark, put everything back, re-installed it back to the van and it won’t start up again. If I blow compressed air to the tubes and air them out, it will start but it won’t stay lit even after 20 seconds holding the knob.
Am I missing something? Anyone knows this?
With ever lasting respect to the List,
Zoltan