Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2016 20:53:16 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_75_kNK3VxMT4z1KnD2=BE_2FLO0NPgHYtP4z+Q5pFuRQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Check the archives for my past comments on filling/bleeding the cooling system. If you take more than 5 minutes and don’t have it bled before the coolant gauge moves above that "warm up zone" you did it wrong or have something wrong and should turn it off and wait for it to cool off again.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2016 10:55 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
Draining the cooling system works per BENPLACE. I have a question about refilling it.
Can using a "coolant bong" fill it sufficiently without all this bleeding stuff, at least to the point you can run it without overheating, watching the temp and coolant level light all the time and maybe add a little more coolant to the expansion tank as required after the thermostat opens?
John
On Feb 12, 2016 18:27, "Larry Alofs" <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
> Rick,
> If you haven't become familiar with the bleeder bolt on the top of
> the radiator it is certainly time that you did so. Remove your upper
> grill and you will see it at the upper corner of the radiator on the passenger side.
> If it is the original screw, you do not need to remove it completely
> to allow the air to escape; just screw it out about 3 threads or so.
> To bleed out air the system must have pressure in it; else you will
> just be letting in more air.
> If the pressure cap on your expansion tank works properly there will
> be pressure whenever the system is fully warm. Else you have to add
> pressure by some other means. When the system is hot and pressurized,
> crack open the bleeder and listen for escaping air and watch for
> coolant flow. Close it back up and repeat again later if you wish.
> This is an essential step any time the cooling system has been
> opened. A significant amount of air in the top part of the radiator
> can cetainly reduce its effectiveness and cause high operating temperatures.
>
> Larry A.
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 7:12 PM, Rick Cooper <rickdcooper@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Two days ago I replaced the big coolant pipe that runs along the LH
> > side
> of
> > the engine (from pump to thermostat area) since it had rust bubbles
> > happening. Put on a nice shiny stainless steel one from Frank
> > Condelli (
> >
> >
> http://www.frankcondelli.com/staging1/store/index.php?route=product/pr
> oduct&path=61_93_95&product_id=367
> > ).
> > At the same time I put in a new thermostat rated for 87 degrees
> > C, though I'm not sure why -- guess I was tired of a lousy heater.
> >
> > Yesterday I did a 100 mile journey and the temp gauge stayed around
> > the
> 3/4
> > to 7/8 position, maybe a needle's width from the high end of the gauge.
> > This seems high, from what I've read here. I'm wondering whether
> > I've
> bled
> > all the air out of the cooling system and it is running
> > inefficiently. I lost about a gallon of coolant in replacing the
> > pipe and think I've replaced about that much. I also topped up the
> > reservoir a couple times after warming up the engine. This morning
> > (day after my journey), the reservoir was down a couple of inches so I've topped it up again.
> >
> > But I've read here about raising the front of the vehicle and
> > removing a bleeder cap on the rad. Should I do that and add coolant there?
> >
> > Thanks, Rick
> >
>