Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 17:43:45 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_7oQgarDnJZtMYZZ+1Gdja0j3-4T-dDuKDtoL+SnOQ=4Q@mail.gmail.com>
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Remove the distributor cap and use the TDC mark on the pulley. Get cylinder #1 set up. Then turn engine clockwise 180 degree. You are set for cylinder #4. Another 180 and cylinder #3, one more 180 and you will finish with cylinder #2.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 10:04 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement
Well, the oil cooler seal is done and the oil filter is in place. But it wasn't without problems. First the internal pipe wrench I was using to remove the oil filter mounting pipe broke inside the pipe. I ordered another but had to wait thru the weekend. I borrowed transportation and bought another internal pipe wernch from Grainger - only the size I needed only came in a kit of four. Cost me 50 bucks, but I got it. When I went to thghten the pipe, the new internal pipe wrench would not grab into the pipe and tighten it. The pipe was hardened steel, an the tool would not work.
Searched back through emails from the list and found a reference to THESAMBA and using a torx tool driven into the pipe to get a gripe. Back to Grainger. Returned the pipe wrench set, but Grainger only had the Totx T55 in a set - $50 again, that I didn't want to spend. Next I drove the borrowed car to Advance Auto and they had what I needed - a single Torx T55. Home again. Screwed the pipe nipple in by hand, then drove the Torx
T55 in the pipe - and low and behold if it didn't go right in to the shoulder of the Torx tool. Another problem to deal with - how to get it out? First things first, I thought. The Torx tool did bite sufficiently was able to torque the pipe nipple to proper torque. The came the trial of removing the Torx tool. Pull, tug, strain - a little gap appeared,and a screwdriver finished the job. Then for the nut to hold the pipe in place.
Would you believe - the socket would not fit. Size was right - 27 mm - but the depth was not. The race was on to get back to Advance Auto for 27 mm deep socket. Once home the nut was torgued, the surfaces cleaned and the filter put on. Tools were put away, lights turned out, and I gave it up for the night. Tomorrow it gets oil. But the valves need to be adjusted first.
I the replacement pushrods tubes in place, the replacement rods in, and have loosened the adusting screws. Tomorrow they get reseated.
Question: whats the best way to identify top dead center on each cylinder for valve adjustment purposes?
Thanks,
John
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