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Date:         Thu, 12 Feb 2015 19:59:27 -0600
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY405-EAS92558FB4C6F9E8BC5DD42DA0220@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I guess I''m a little confused. My pulley has two marks - one is the "V" mark for 5 degree advance, the other is a "U" shaped mark for TDC. I used the "U" mark to adjust the valves on what I am pretty sure is cylinder #1. It is taken care of. The next cylinder I have to deal with is the right rear - passenger side, towards rear of car. How many turns from TDC on #1 to get to TDC on that rear cylinder. And what is the cylinder #?

As I recall - and its been a long time - a four-stroke cycle engine moves the piston up cylinder to top dead center twice in each cycle. I am trying to arrive at the one with both valves closed for the ignition event on that rear cylinder.

Thanks,

John On Feb 12, 2015 4:45 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Remove the distributor cap and use the TDC mark on the pulley. Get > cylinder #1 set up. Then turn engine clockwise 180 degree. You are set for > cylinder #4. Another 180 and cylinder #3, one more 180 and you will finish > with cylinder #2. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf > Of John Rodgers > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 10:04 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement > > Well, the oil cooler seal is done and the oil filter is in place. But it > wasn't without problems. First the internal pipe wrench I was using to > remove the oil filter mounting pipe broke inside the pipe. I ordered > another but had to wait thru the weekend. I borrowed transportation and > bought another internal pipe wernch from Grainger - only the size I needed > only came in a kit of four. Cost me 50 bucks, but I got it. When I went to > thghten the pipe, the new internal pipe wrench would not grab into the pipe > and tighten it. The pipe was hardened steel, an the tool would not work. > Searched back through emails from the list and found a reference to > THESAMBA and using a torx tool driven into the pipe to get a gripe. Back to > Grainger. Returned the pipe wrench set, but Grainger only had the Totx T55 > in a set - $50 again, that I didn't want to spend. Next I drove the > borrowed car to Advance Auto and they had what I needed - a single Torx > T55. Home again. Screwed the pipe nipple in by hand, then drove the Torx > T55 in the pipe - and low and behold if it didn't go right in to the > shoulder of the Torx tool. Another problem to deal with - how to get it > out? First things first, I thought. The Torx tool did bite sufficiently was > able to torque the pipe nipple to proper torque. The came the trial of > removing the Torx tool. Pull, tug, strain - a little gap appeared,and a > screwdriver finished the job. Then for the nut to hold the pipe in place. > Would you believe - the socket would not fit. Size was right - 27 mm - > but the depth was not. The race was on to get back to Advance Auto for 27 > mm deep socket. Once home the nut was torgued, the surfaces cleaned and the > filter put on. Tools were put away, lights turned out, and I gave it up for > the night. Tomorrow it gets oil. But the valves need to be adjusted first. > I the replacement pushrods tubes in place, the replacement rods in, and > have loosened the adusting screws. Tomorrow they get reseated. > > Question: whats the best way to identify top dead center on each cylinder > for valve adjustment purposes? > > Thanks, > > John >


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