Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 18:03:25 -0800
Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: PS pump switch, engine compartment wiring harness, ECU,
starter
In-Reply-To: <BLU169-W110E1B94CA694EC2E1A48A8E0A80@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Bentley doesn't show any I can find.
They are a fail-safe for preventing a major fire caused by a short in big
wire. Those big unfused wires don't melt down until everything else has.
They are not easily replaced (especially by the side of the road), so
putting an appropriately sized fuse in these unfused power supply lines is a
better idea.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
James
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 2:46 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: PS pump switch, engine compartment wiring harness, ECU, starter
And VW were not averse to fusible links - I've had them fail or known of
failures of fusible links in other VWs, Golfs, Rabbits. One was on a Golf
III starter - went up in a little poof of smoke!
Are there many (or any) of these on the Vanagon? In places, it's as if VW
were depending on using low gauge wire to limit the damage in the case of
short circuits.
James
Ottawa, ON
> Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 20:41:13 -0500
> From: d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM
> Subject: Re: PS pump switch, engine compartment wiring harness, ECU,
starter
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
> There are many wires and even components on the vanagon that are not
protected from over current or shorted circuits. From the factory the
connections to the power steering pressure switch were in an insulated
cover. Over time both from age and heat along with mechanic abuse the covers
crack and fall off or get knocked open and lost from work in the area. The
connectors can also loosen over time. When the pump or line gets serviced
the pipe may even get relocated so that these now open connections come into
contact with other metal objects. The real problem here was lack of care and
maintenance. That is if this was the real problem. Amongst things not fused
you have the ignition coil, injectors, fuel pump, O2 sensor heater, and all
that wiring from the battery and alternator through so many switches with
fuses between the switches and the component being protected. Think of your
house not having fuses or circuit breakers in the source panel but rather
between the switch and the appliance. Point is this one fuse addition is
sort of like a band aid when what was really needed is good competent work
to not have created the condition in the first place. The details matter.
>
> One option for mass system protection is to use fusible links. Special
wire designed to burn out during large overload conditions. Usually you size
these one size smaller than the wire being protected. Any old school GM
mechanic knows about these very well.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
John Rodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2016 11:03 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: PS pump switch, engine compartment wiring harness, ECU, starter
>
> This is kinda to bring everyone up to speed on recent problems on my '88
GL Vanagon.
>
> A little while back driving down the road the starter suddenly engaged.
> Stalled the engine. Clutched it, but could not turn off the starter.
Fnally did, and long story short, got it tow to HESCO, one of the best
garages in the area. They will work on anything. Even had a snowmachine
mounted on wheels in there.
>
> Anyway, after checking, they found the engine bay harness was fried, as
was the ECU and the starter. It seemed the meltdown began with a PS switch
wire.
>
> What has been learned from knowlegable folks ln this list, is that:
>
> 1) The PS steering switch circuit is a hot, un-fused circuit. There is no
protection of this circuit on these vans.
>
> 2) The fix ( by way of David Beierl) is to install a 7.5 amp fuse in the
engine wiring box, in the red wire that goes from the B+ post inside the box
to the relay box. That will keep your harness from smoking.
>
> 3) A thru 2003 BRAND NEW FROM THE FACTORY starter for a TDI DIESEL, fitted
with an adapter plate, works perfect. This also works with a Subaru engine
conversion.
>
> See following links:
>
>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-NEW-STARTER-FOR-VW-DIESEL-TDI-MANUAL-TRANS-HIGH-
TORQUE-2Kw-ONE-YR-WARRANTY-/300475513229?hash=item45f5bc798d:g:p8EAAOxyJX1TF
mlY&vxp=mtr
>
> http://www.westyventures.com/parts.html
>
> Necessary pigtail:
>
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1673971
>
> Kudos go to Peter Jones at Van Cafe for scaring me up an ECU with the
pigtail already installed formy SHOEBOX ECU MONITOR. Since my stroke I don't
have fin enough muslce control to do that fine soldering required.
> Hand shakes just a little to much. But he got'ter done. He is also going
to put Davids fix on the Van Cafe web site next to the PS swich info.
>
> And KUDOS to JAY BROWN for his advice on the starter pigtail and sending
me a new starter relay to replace the one that got fried in all this. I
happen to have his headlight relay set-up in both my vans, too.
>
> There were many others who provided input on this, and I want to thank you
all too.
>
> I seriously hope this helps someone else avoid the problems and expense
that I have had with this. Remember, fore warned is fore armed! Fuse that
wire and avoid all this some place on a dark and stormy night, between
Somewheresville and Nowheresville!
>
> John
=
| 
