Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2016 13:01:28 -0800
Reply-To: Rick Cooper <rickdcooper@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Rick Cooper <rickdcooper@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
In-Reply-To: <CANEuo0iMHdkk+vcTLjDz70paeXMrtx6FS9FdLhddCv4mQMvC1A@mail.gmail.com>
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Thanks guys, for the good info. Coming up I was getting loads of heat from
both heaters, which was a lovely change since before I was getting little.
It was likely the original thermostat (had VW markings) and was stuck open
-- temp gauge never got higher than 1/3 on the gauge.
I did open the radiator bleed screw/bolt this morning after warming up the
engine to operating temp, but only got coolant -- at least I didn't hear
any hissing.
Now I'm back home after putting on another 100 miles this morning.
Flashing red light on the temp gauge came on twice and both times I pulled
over immediately expecting to find coolant loss. But none -- I assume
that, in addition to reporting coolant loss in the reservoir, it also
reports unacceptable high temp? Anyone know the exact temp that it lights
up?
Anyway, in both cases the engine was working hard -- once travelling at
65mph with both heaters off and once on a 5 mile climb. In both cases, the
light stayed out after I turned on both heaters. The real problem though
is my radiator fan is never coming on. Does this have a fuse I should
check? Any typical causes for malfunction?
Thanks again,
Rick
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 5:38 AM, kenneth wilford (Van-Again) <
kenwilfy@comcast.net> wrote:
> Rick, you should try bleeding it at the radiator just to see what happens
> but it shouldn't be needed. The 2.1l cooling system actually self bleeds
> over time so as long as you keep an eye on your coolant level in the
> expansion tank (the one that you have to open the engine bay lid to see to
> the left), then it should eventually bleed itself over the course of a
> couple of days. There is a bleeder screw on the top of the thermostat
> housing cover that you can open, but only do this for a few days at most as
> it will keep your coolant from getting hot enough for the heater to work
> properly. Also if the system is mostly free of air, another way to tell is
> if your front heater is working properly. It is at high spot in the system
> and if there is air in the system it won't put out much heat. If the
> system is bled then it will put out loads of heat.
>
> Let us know what you find out.
>
> Ken
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 7:12 PM, Rick Cooper <rickdcooper@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Two days ago I replaced the big coolant pipe that runs along the LH side
>> of
>> the engine (from pump to thermostat area) since it had rust bubbles
>> happening. Put on a nice shiny stainless steel one from Frank Condelli (
>>
>> http://www.frankcondelli.com/staging1/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_93_95&product_id=367
>> ).
>> At the same time I put in a new thermostat rated for 87 degrees C,
>> though I'm not sure why -- guess I was tired of a lousy heater.
>>
>> Yesterday I did a 100 mile journey and the temp gauge stayed around the
>> 3/4
>> to 7/8 position, maybe a needle's width from the high end of the gauge.
>> This seems high, from what I've read here. I'm wondering whether I've
>> bled
>> all the air out of the cooling system and it is running inefficiently. I
>> lost about a gallon of coolant in replacing the pipe and think I've
>> replaced about that much. I also topped up the reservoir a couple times
>> after warming up the engine. This morning (day after my journey), the
>> reservoir was down a couple of inches so I've topped it up again.
>>
>> But I've read here about raising the front of the vehicle and removing a
>> bleeder cap on the rad. Should I do that and add coolant there?
>>
>> Thanks, Rick
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
>
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