Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2016 02:09:45 +0000
Reply-To: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
In-Reply-To: <1455400219.1894.11.camel@jhl.mgacoxmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
John, The system uses shop air to create a vacuum. You put the tube with
the small strainer on it down into a gallon of antifreeze that can be
sitting on the shop floor. You push a button and it pulls a vacuum on the
cooling system. There is a gauge and you pull the vacuum until the gauge
gets to a certain reading, then see if it holds. If it does then the
system has no leaks and is ready to fill. If it won't hold a vacuum then
you have a leak that can be addressed before you put any coolant in the
system. No hot coolant spilling on the floor, etc. Once you are ready to
fill the system you just flip a lever and the coolant starts flowing. Once
you use up a gallon, you flip the lever and put the tube down into the
next gallon and open the lever again. Very little effort or mess is
involved. You keep adding coolant until the gauge gets to zero and the
system is full with no air. Now you can put the pressure cap on and you
are done with no jacking up or bleeding. The unit comes with instructions
but no case unfortunately. I keep mine in a plastic bag to keep it clean.
For someone who rarely bleeds the Vanagon cooling system it probably isn't
worth buying. To me, someone who does the bleeding job a few times a week
at some points of the year, it makes it much easier and painless.
Ken
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016, 4:50 PM john <john@jhl.mgacoxmail.com> wrote:
> Hello Ken:
>
> Please explain how you use device. Looks like one fitting
> near gauge would go to vacuum pump. Where does clear
> plastic tubing go? How do you use device to remove air
> pockets from a nearly full Vanagon cooling system?
>
> Thank you,
>
> John
>
> On Sat, 2016-02-13 at 08:48 -0500, kenneth wilford (Van-
> Again) wrote:
> > John, forget all of that bleeding stuff. Use this device
> > and it will allow
> > you to check for leaks (vacuum mode) and then fill the
> > system without any
> > jacking, bleeding, etc. Gets all of the air out of the
> > system the first
> > time, every time. Been using it for about 2 years now and
> > it works
> > flawlessly every time. Just got tired of the bleeding
> > process, spilling
> > coolant, hot coolant overflowing, etc.
> > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QFDRS0?psc=1&redirect
> > =true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01
> >
> > HTH,
> > Ken
> >
> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 10:55 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers11
> > 3@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Draining the cooling system works per BENPLACE. I have
> > > a question about
> > > refilling it.
> > >
> > > Can using a "coolant bong" fill it sufficiently without
> > > all this bleeding
> > > stuff, at least to the point you can run it without
> > > overheating, watching
> > > the temp and coolant level light all the time and maybe
> > > add a little more
> > > coolant to the expansion tank as required after the
> > > thermostat opens?
> > >
> > > John
> > > On Feb 12, 2016 18:27, "Larry Alofs" <lalofs@gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Rick,
> > > > If you haven't become familiar with the bleeder bolt
> > > > on the top of the
> > > > radiator it is certainly time that you did so. Remove
> > > > your upper grill
> > > and
> > > > you will see it at the upper corner of the radiator on
> > > > the passenger
> > > side.
> > > > If it is the original screw, you do not need to remove
> > > > it completely to
> > > > allow the air to escape; just screw it out about 3
> > > > threads or so. To
> > > bleed
> > > > out air the system must have pressure in it; else you
> > > > will just be
> > > letting
> > > > in more air.
> > > > If the pressure cap on your expansion tank works
> > > > properly there will be
> > > > pressure whenever the system is fully warm. Else you
> > > > have to add
> > > pressure
> > > > by some other means. When the system is hot and
> > > > pressurized, crack open
> > > > the bleeder and listen for escaping air and watch for
> > > > coolant flow.
> > > Close
> > > > it back up and repeat again later if you wish.
> > > > This is an essential step any time the cooling
> > > > system has been
> > > opened. A
> > > > significant amount of air in the top part of the
> > > > radiator can cetainly
> > > > reduce its effectiveness and cause high operating
> > > > temperatures.
> > > >
> > > > Larry A.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 7:12 PM, Rick Cooper <rickdcoo
> > > > per@gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Two days ago I replaced the big coolant pipe that
> > > > > runs along the LH
> > > side
> > > > of
> > > > > the engine (from pump to thermostat area) since it
> > > > > had rust bubbles
> > > > > happening. Put on a nice shiny stainless steel one
> > > > > from Frank
> > > Condelli (
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > http://www.frankcondelli.com/staging1/store/index.php?ro
> > > ute=product/product&path=61_93_95&product_id=367
> > > > > ).
> > > > > At the same time I put in a new thermostat rated
> > > > > for 87 degrees C,
> > > > > though I'm not sure why -- guess I was tired of a
> > > > > lousy heater.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yesterday I did a 100 mile journey and the temp
> > > > > gauge stayed around the
> > > > 3/4
> > > > > to 7/8 position, maybe a needle's width from the
> > > > > high end of the gauge.
> > > > > This seems high, from what I've read here. I'm
> > > > > wondering whether I've
> > > > bled
> > > > > all the air out of the cooling system and it is
> > > > > running
> > > inefficiently. I
> > > > > lost about a gallon of coolant in replacing the pipe
> > > > > and think I've
> > > > > replaced about that much. I also topped up the
> > > > > reservoir a couple
> > > times
> > > > > after warming up the engine. This morning (day
> > > > > after my journey), the
> > > > > reservoir was down a couple of inches so I've topped
> > > > > it up again.
> > > > >
> > > > > But I've read here about raising the front of the
> > > > > vehicle and removing
> > > a
> > > > > bleeder cap on the rad. Should I do that and add
> > > > > coolant there?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks, Rick
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Thanks,
> > Ken Wilford
> > John 3:16
> > www.vanagain.com
>
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