Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 21:04:25 -0600
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement
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Well, the oil cooler seal is done and the oil filter is in place. But it
wasn't without problems. First the internal pipe wrench I was using to
remove the oil filter mounting pipe broke inside the pipe. I ordered
another but had to wait thru the weekend. I borrowed transportation and
bought another internal pipe wernch from Grainger - only the size I needed
only came in a kit of four. Cost me 50 bucks, but I got it. When I went to
thghten the pipe, the new internal pipe wrench would not grab into the pipe
and tighten it. The pipe was hardened steel, an the tool would not work.
Searched back through emails from the list and found a reference to
THESAMBA and using a torx tool driven into the pipe to get a gripe. Back to
Grainger. Returned the pipe wrench set, but Grainger only had the Totx T55
in a set - $50 again, that I didn't want to spend. Next I drove the
borrowed car to Advance Auto and they had what I needed - a single Torx
T55. Home again. Screwed the pipe nipple in by hand, then drove the Torx
T55 in the pipe - and low and behold if it didn't go right in to the
shoulder of the Torx tool. Another problem to deal with - how to get it
out? First things first, I thought. The Torx tool did bite sufficiently was
able to torque the pipe nipple to proper torque. The came the trial of
removing the Torx tool. Pull, tug, strain - a little gap appeared,and a
screwdriver finished the job. Then for the nut to hold the pipe in place.
Would you believe - the socket would not fit. Size was right - 27 mm -
but the depth was not. The race was on to get back to Advance Auto for 27
mm deep socket. Once home the nut was torgued, the surfaces cleaned and the
filter put on. Tools were put away, lights turned out, and I gave it up for
the night. Tomorrow it gets oil. But the valves need to be adjusted first.
I the replacement pushrods tubes in place, the replacement rods in, and
have loosened the adusting screws. Tomorrow they get reseated.
Question: whats the best way to identify top dead center on each cylinder
for valve adjustment purposes?
Thanks,
John
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