Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2016 08:07:33 -0500
Reply-To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_75_kNK3VxMT4z1KnD2=BE_2FLO0NPgHYtP4z+Q5pFuRQ@mail.gmail.com>
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You still have to let the air out of the top of the radiator.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 10:55 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Draining the cooling system works per BENPLACE. I have a question about
> refilling it.
>
> Can using a "coolant bong" fill it sufficiently without all this bleeding
> stuff, at least to the point you can run it without overheating, watching
> the temp and coolant level light all the time and maybe add a little more
> coolant to the expansion tank as required after the thermostat opens?
>
> John
> On Feb 12, 2016 18:27, "Larry Alofs" <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Rick,
>> If you haven't become familiar with the bleeder bolt on the top of the
>> radiator it is certainly time that you did so. Remove your upper grill
>> and
>> you will see it at the upper corner of the radiator on the passenger side.
>> If it is the original screw, you do not need to remove it completely to
>> allow the air to escape; just screw it out about 3 threads or so. To
>> bleed
>> out air the system must have pressure in it; else you will just be letting
>> in more air.
>> If the pressure cap on your expansion tank works properly there will be
>> pressure whenever the system is fully warm. Else you have to add pressure
>> by some other means. When the system is hot and pressurized, crack open
>> the bleeder and listen for escaping air and watch for coolant flow. Close
>> it back up and repeat again later if you wish.
>> This is an essential step any time the cooling system has been opened.
>> A
>> significant amount of air in the top part of the radiator can cetainly
>> reduce its effectiveness and cause high operating temperatures.
>>
>> Larry A.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 7:12 PM, Rick Cooper <rickdcooper@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Two days ago I replaced the big coolant pipe that runs along the LH
>> side of
>> > the engine (from pump to thermostat area) since it had rust bubbles
>> > happening. Put on a nice shiny stainless steel one from Frank Condelli
>> (
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.frankcondelli.com/staging1/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_93_95&product_id=367
>> > ).
>> > At the same time I put in a new thermostat rated for 87 degrees C,
>> > though I'm not sure why -- guess I was tired of a lousy heater.
>> >
>> > Yesterday I did a 100 mile journey and the temp gauge stayed around the
>> 3/4
>> > to 7/8 position, maybe a needle's width from the high end of the gauge.
>> > This seems high, from what I've read here. I'm wondering whether I've
>> bled
>> > all the air out of the cooling system and it is running inefficiently.
>> I
>> > lost about a gallon of coolant in replacing the pipe and think I've
>> > replaced about that much. I also topped up the reservoir a couple times
>> > after warming up the engine. This morning (day after my journey), the
>> > reservoir was down a couple of inches so I've topped it up again.
>> >
>> > But I've read here about raising the front of the vehicle and removing a
>> > bleeder cap on the rad. Should I do that and add coolant there?
>> >
>> > Thanks, Rick
>> >
>>
>
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