http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/vehicle-specific-oil-filter-sender-adapter.aspx
Is replacing the grey hi pressure switch a better option than the filter adapter plate?
On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 11:50 AM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com> wrote:
> Dunno if it is possible with the WBX sensors but a thought: Perhaps
> replace the sensor with a gauge for pressure? Or a T-fitting, like I
> use on my inline VW motor... one that allows me to have the warning light
> function and the OP pressure instrument? I also installed an oil
> temperature gauge....I think I put that at oil filter flange....
>
> Both of those gauges are very informative....I monitor those during
> extreme driving conditions...I would not feel comfortable depending on
> just the warnings from factory in any VW motor (that I can afford)
> when well-installed dependable instrument can show you the actual
> temperature and pressure and the trends in (almost) real time...
>
> As an example of the peace of mind given by actually knowing what
> is going on with the motor's insides.......On my recent trip back from
> the desert SW I encountered a huge traffic jamb on Cajon Pass, leaving
> San Bernardino....Almost two hours of stop and go, uphill amidst a
> crowd of huge big rigs and very aggressive California drivers, with no
> off ramps and almost no chance of lane changes, driving my 84 vanagon
> loaded at 4700lbs....Sitting there amongst all that I was glad to KNOW
> that nothing much was bothering the old ABA jetta motor...OP stayed at
> 23lbs during idle and the temp confirmed the motor was cooling just fine...
>
> Better, in my opinion, than just: "Oil pressure?...Yes" that you get
> from the stock set up....
>
> On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 9:19 AM, Kevin Duvernay <kduvey@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks guys. How do I tell if my sensor is an aftermarket one or one
>> of the genuine resigned ones?
>>
>> I do have a spare oil cooler O ring kicking around somewhere, I'll
>> dig it out. Good tip on the PB blaster. I snapped a stud replacing
>> the other header... (although the 2/4 header hardware looks much less
>> corroded and I've already broke 3 of the 4 nuts loose)
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 11:12 AM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Kevin
>> >
>> > Not that it is necessary, but I'll put a 2nd on what DH &
>> > KW
>> have
>> > said & Add that if
>> >
>> > You have not already done so, You should Soak All the Nuts&Bolts
>> > that
>> you
>> > are going to
>> >
>> > be removing on this project with PBBlaster &Or Zep45 Today & then
>> HeatItUp
>> > ToOp'Temp
>> >
>> > &Then SoakAgain ~
>> >
>> > &Also ~ The NextTime You change Your Oil, Save Yourself
>> > some UnnecessarilySpent
>> >
>> > $s & use Valvoline FullSynthetic Instead ~
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/full-sy
>> nthetic-motor-oil/
>> >
>> > Redline is a GreatOil as are RoyalPurple & Ams but
>> WayOverPriced &
>> > a Valvo' F'S'Oil
>> >
>> > will DoTheJob JustAsWell ~
>> >
>> > There are Other Good F'S'Oils out there but I'm just fond
>> > of Valvo' ~
>> >
>> > ORR ~ DeanB
>> >
>> >
>> > On 5 Mar , 2015, at 8:50 AM, Kevin Duvernay wrote:
>> >
>> > > I'm swapping out my motor mounts tomorrow. While I'm there I'm
>> > > also
>> going
>> > > to replace the #2/4 header. If that goes smoothly, I've also got
>> > > a new water pump along with all new coolant pipes/gaskets and
>> > > hoses (its basically the last bits of my complete cooling system
>> > > overhaul!)
>> > >
>> > > Anyways, I figured while I'm there doing all this I minus well
>> > > toss
>> in a
>> > > new high pressure oil sender (the grey one, .9 bar). What I'm
>> wondering
>> > is,
>> > > is it possible to do this without loosing too much oil? I JUST
>> > > changed
>> > the
>> > > oil out to some really expensive Redline synthetic stuff, would
>> > > hate
>> to
>> > > waste any of it...
>> > >
>> > > Also, anything else I should address while I'm back there?
>> > >
>> > > Kevin
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
