Date:         Fri, 20 Mar 2015 12:15:34 -0600
Reply-To:     Miguel Pacheco <mundopacheco@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Miguel Pacheco <mundopacheco@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Radius Rod Landing on Frame
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY405-EAS2227DE406E885E91FE421AA0490@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Ok, I have the recommended washers and yellow T3 Technique radius rod
bushing kit in hand. The bushing kit's aluminum flange fits perfectly into
the washer ID, so nice call there fellers. I'm cleaning up, buffing the
area first, then will weld in the new washers. I'm sure the resulting gap
within bushing assembly can be filled in with a spacer, as Dennis suggests.
I will post results soon. Thanks

*Miguel*

*The free soul is rare, but you know it when you see it- basically because
you feel good, very good, when you are near or with them. *
*- Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary*



On Wed, Jan 21, 2015 at 7:56 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been using the yellow and are quite happy with them. The T3 kit
> includes an aluminum flange to guide the bushings. You can be creative and
> use  3 or 4 flat head screws to keep the aluminum flange in place and forgo
> the weld repair.
>
> A good welder may be able to build up the hole and fit it around the T3
> flange or a new front bushing. I have also cut out the mess and welded in
> 1-1/4" washers.  You can also weld a washer on to what is there and add an
> equal thickness spacer to the bushing sleeve to maintain the proper
> compression.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Miguel Pacheco
> Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 11:33 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Radius Rod Landing on Frame
>
> So there are two offerings from T3. A purple and a yellow radius rod
> bushing kit. I'm not looking to color coordinate or any cool factor. I'm
> interested to know which works best with the washer repair. Gracias
>
> *Miguel*
>
> *The free soul is rare, but you know it when you see it- basically because
> you feel good, very good, when you are near or with them. *
> *- Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary*
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 2:11 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On 1/20/15, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Neil, it looks like you .... welded it in on top of the old part.
> >
> > Hi Jim. Yes. This is what I did. I welded a new piece of plate to face
> > of frame.
> >
> > > The washer technique would yield the same result--new metal for the
> > > hole. The fact that the new part if thicker than or offset to the
> > original
> > > body metal can easily be compensated for by repositioning the
> > > washers and nuts on the threaded end of the rod.
> >
> > For sure. Yes. Thanks. If we're talking about the castor setting, I
> > understood that adding new metal plate to frame face wouldn't cause an
> > issue in that regard.
> >
> > This is not a great image:
> >
> > https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/RadiusArmHoleBack.jpg
> >
> > but it shows a new bushing installed to the frame I repaired. The
> > black arrow points to lip of the bushing which is not sitting flush to
> > frame face.
> >
> > Granted this was my first time doing a radius rod bushing job but I
> > assumed that in the case of an un-repaired OEM thickness frame, the
> > bushing lip in frame hole ID should sit flush to face at other side of
> > frame. It appeared to me that adding new metal plate to frame face
> > would position the bushing so that the bushing lip in hole ID wasn't
> > flush to frame face.
> >
> > Sorry for all the writing I'm doing but it is well intended.   :)
> >
> >
> > >
> > > On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 1:51 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> On 1/20/15, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> >       The WasherThickness Won't Cause a Prob' ~ Just need to be
> > >> > sure
> > >> that Washer
> > >> > ID Matches the OD
> > >> >
> > >> > of the Step on the RubberBush' or the Alum'Bush if you use T3 ~
> > >>
> > >> Maybe I missed a detail in a post here or it wasn't made, or I'm
> > >> just thick in the head, (LOL) but I'm assuming the washer in
> > >> question would be welded to face of subframe as per repair I did.
> Image:
> > >>
> > >> https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/RadiusArmHoleFront.jpg
> > >>
> > >> (my welding has improved some since then.   ha ha.)
> > >>
> > >> Are Miguel et al talking about welding a washer, or part of a
> > >> washer, to ID of hole at frame?
> > >>
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Neil n
> >
> > Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca>
> >
> > 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy>
> >
> > 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical
> > <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>
> >
> > Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>
> >
>