Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 16:39:01 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Fridge problem... which thing is malfunctioning?
In-Reply-To: <CAFnDXk0-qKmu-Fobc12By0wSbLQVmF9v6patG0WMfRRS5NRv5A@mail.gmail.com>
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Running on 110v or 12v gets some heat into the exhaust pipe. This makes it easier for the flame to start the draft so it remains lighted. As for the operating out of level there a chemical reactions that relay on things vaporizing and condensing back down to the boiler part. Operated out of level enough for the cooling actin to stop can cuase some of the chemicals to burn or real severe burn out the bottom of the collection-boiler chamber. If it cools at all you are usually good to go. If the system should stall but not damaged regular driving will usually burp it and get it going again.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Jim Felder
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 3:23 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Fridge problem... which thing is malfunctioning?
Just an another data point of confusion, I plugged the fridge into 110 about an hour ago, during which time it fell about ten degrees. Then I tried lighting it again. It lit right up and is still dropping in temperature. I will let it run for a while and try again when it is cold.
I have heard people say they had to pre-warm their fridges on 110 to get them to light on gas, but I've never had to.
Another thing--I don't know much but rudimentary stuff about these things--I ran the fridge overnight on a pretty steep hill about a month ago. I have heard all kinds of dubious-sounding opinions about how this can cause poor performance, some saying that it can be overcome in time and others saying you should turn a unit over 360 degrees to get all the ammonia in one place. While it may or may not apply to my situation, what's the truth about that?
Jim
On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 1:55 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> What if the stove is working? I gather that's not nearly as sensitive
> as the fridge. I just put a new Frank Condelli regulator in there when
> mine failed four or five years ago. Maybe a little longer. Where do
> you connect the manometer tube?
>
> I have had the book as long as I have had the van and have found it to
> be of not much help. Your link prompted me to take it out again in
> hopes that the contents had magically changed over the years but alas they had not.
>
> I'd like to see the manometer setup if there is a link to that anywhere.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 1:32 PM Stuart MacMillan
> <stuartmacm@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Jim, do you have "the book"?
>> http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=3637
>>
>> Always start with first things first, which is the gas supply, since
>> your regulator could be bad. 11" water column is needed (0.4 psi),
>> and you can make a manometer out of vinyl tubing and a tape measure.
>> If that’s good, then pull it and go from there. I've fixed both my
>> Vanagon and EVC fridges on the bench, and it's best to have them
>> hooked up to a portable propane bottle and regulator (1 psi bbq
>> regulator will work). for testing before you put them back in.
>>
>> If it won't stay lit with the button pushed in it's either low
>> pressure, clogged line, or a bad gas valve in the fridge. I hope it's
>> the gas pressure!
>>
>> Stuart
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> Behalf Of Jim Felder
>> Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 10:45 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: Fridge problem... which thing is malfunctioning?
>>
>> Another thing: The reference to "won't stay lit for more than a minute"
>> cam from observing the light in the indicator panel, which has a
>> residual effect. Looking directly at the flame in the peephole, it
>> burns for ten seconds or so. Strong at first, then weakly, then out.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 12:23 PM Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > 1983 Westy. Fridge out for combustion chamber cleaning about 4
>> > years
>> ago.
>> >
>> > I have enjoyed years of great fridge use until two trips ago, about
>> > three weeks ago, when I was driving across the Mobile Bay Causeway
>> > in the same 70 mph winds that killed eight sailors that day. It was
>> > scary enough in a potpie camper.
>> >
>> > Anyway, I didn't notice anything that night, but in the morning it
>> > was down say 15 degrees from where it should have been, which as
>> > you probably know is bad enough. It happened again on thursday
>> > night on an overnight trip. I shot a blast of air through it and
>> > now it won't stay lit for more than a minute, with the "prime" knob held down or not.
>> >
>> > So, I figure either that it is rust, scale or debris the either
>> > got blown in (it was raining everything you could imagine on the
>> > roadway) or dislodged OR it is a failing shutoff thermostat that
>> > just won't hold the gas open as it should.
>> >
>> > Anyway to tell the difference without pulling it? I know I have to
>> > pull it, that's no big deal, as the 10-year-old gowesty replacement
>> > fan needs replacing to. But it would be a lot easier to accomplish
>> > if I knew whether or not I needed that part.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Jim
>> >
>>
>>
