At 11:49 AM 5/23/2015, Neil N wrote: >Right on. >Those burner boxes sure get dirty. >On one of my Dometics, not only was the box dirty, >the drain plug was *packed* with rust. image: >http://tinyurl.com/l3gfdoz Based on my experience the cure is to run the sucker. I ran mine on gas 9-10 months a year for ten years and the burner chamber was never anything but squeaky clean and pretty inside.
>I never did get my Dometic to stay lit while driving in *heavy* cross winds >but then I suspect the thermocouple was very marginal. >At low flame ("pilot"), that part likely didn't see enough heat. >It appeared to be burned back too short. (long term wear) >http://tinyurl.com/mh28gjq I believe I replaced mine based on appearance, not a functional failure. In that same ten years I had it blow out one time that was not traced to a leak in the flue system, and that one time involved the near passage of a hurricane. All other times it became susceptible to blowing out, I fixed the leak, it was once again bulletproof.
>In hindsight, adding RTV to the stock seal at body likely wasn't needed >but this image: http://tinyurl.com/n76os7f shows a bit of how the >intake You have to line it up quite accurately before attaching the mounting screws. A broomstick in the flue is ideal for the comnbination of brute force and delicacy required. I also sealed to the body but in truth if the flue system is sealed correctly it cannot be affected by body sealing unless that leads to some local oscillatory condition of the airflow in the vicinity of the flue and intake openings. Conditions at the flue and intake must be the same; that's why it's coaxial. The baffle plate is necessary to keep flue gas from recycling into the intake. Yrs, d |
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