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Date:         Wed, 27 May 2015 19:18:28 -0700
Reply-To:     Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <>
From:         Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Advice on TD engine problem
Comments: To: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I know the dieselheads will be outraged at my question, but why would anybody bother with this conversion to get power "about the same as a 1.9"? To shift through three instead of four gears?

I just don't get it when you can do a Subaru and get at least a 45% increase in power.

Must be something about those fumes I'm missing.


-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [] On Behalf Of kenneth wilford (Van-Again) Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 2:14 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Advice on TD engine problem

OK guys just wanted to update you all on what is up with the 1.9l TD conversion. Got it all back together last week but then the timing was off and I didn't have the tool to set it properly (a whole different story) so I had to order one. Fast forward to Tuesday of this week, set the timing back to where it was (.90mm lift) and the van is purring like a rather large kitten! Running great and the pesky oil light is off. Driving it around as a test drive, my coolant temp gauge is reading around 3/4 hot however reading the temps with an infrared heat gun it isn't even hot at the hose that goes to the head at that point. I let it run last night to get hot enough for the radiator fan to come on and when it did the gauge is almost reading full hot. I think it is just not calibrated to the sender that came with the engine. I wish you could adjust the gauge somehow, but as far as I know there isn't a way to do that. My new normal is 3/4 hot. I pulled that relay for the blinking light out because the reservoir for the conversion doesn't have a level sender in it.

Driving around, it seems to have power on par with a 1.9l waterboxer with more low end torque. I can take off in 2nd gear with my unmodified waterboxer transmission and that actually feels better than starting in 1st which is almost a creeper gear now. At 50 mph it is winding up, but not as bad as the 1.6l NA diesel does at that speed. I haven't really driven much faster yet as I am still breaking the engine in at this point.

It is nice to hear that turbo working which sounds like a hair dryer right now. I need to do some sound deadening to quiet things up.

So, if I hadn't had to deal with that stuck valve in the oil filter flange this would have not been a bad experience. It is a pretty easy conversion to do and now that I have done one, I could do the next one in probably 10-15 hours (as long as there are no gotcha from the engine builders side).

I still haven't spoken with the conversion supplier yet about reimbursing me for my time. I'll let you know how that goes (like a lead balloon most likely).

Ken Wilford John 3:16

On Thu, May 21, 2015 at 5:58 PM, Dennis Haynes <> wrote:

> Maybe you can post some pictures of that valve. I don’t have a lot of > experience on the 1.9TD but the on the other in line 4 cylinder engines the > valve I am aware of is the oil filter bypass valve. This is a major > difference between factory filters for the Waterboxers as compared to the > inline engines. The Waterboxers need the bypass in the filter whereas the > inline motors have it in the filter flange. Looking at the filter the oil > flows into on the outside and then enters the engine through the center > pipe. If oil is going through the outside of the filter flange into the > engine then the filter is bypassed. > > Dennis > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [] On Behalf > Of kenneth wilford (Van-Again) > Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2015 8:23 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Advice on TD engine problem > > Progress!! Put the engine back together yesterday, and installed the oil > filter flange without the check valve. Just by spinning the engine over > with the starter, I got oil pressure at the head in about 10 seconds! > Today I have to bleed the coolant system (again) and then it should be > ready to run. I am leaving an oil pressure gauge installed right now just > to be able to see what is going on. I also spoke with Chris at Foreign > Auto Supply in Maine. They also sell a TD conversion for the Vanagon. I > asked them specifically about the check valve in the oil filter flange. > They say that they always remove it on the diesel engines they install. > It is for the gas engines and that the diesels don't need it. That is good > enough for me. This one little part has caused me more pain and delay than > I would like to think about. Just not sure why the engine supplier didn't > know about this issue. > > Response from Overland so far has been to overnight me the bare essentials > to put this thing back together. I sent them pictures of one of the cam > bearing caps that looked galled to me and they said it was fine and I > didn't need a new head. After cleaning it up, it really isn't that bad so > I am not going to make a big deal about it since it is their warranty. > After everything is said and done, I am going to petition for some store > credit for all of my extra time. > > Ken > > On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:39 PM, kenneth wilford (Van-Again) < >> wrote: > > > So today I think I have finally gotten to the heart of the matter with > > this engine. I tried to spin the oil pump to get oil pressure coming > > out of block but no oil would come out. Finally I traced the oil > > passage down through the block to the filter flange itself. I had > > already taken this off once and inspected it but not knowing how the > > oil system was supposed to work, I looked down this one passage and > > saw what I thought was a plug to block it off and didn't think > > anything of it since all of the other passages were unblocked. What I > > think I understand now is that this one passage that goes from the > > filter flange up into the block and then to the head is a check valve? > > I am assuming that once you build up enough oil pressure it will open > this valve and allow oil to travel up to the head. > > The valve would prevent oil from leaking down when you turn off the > > engine. I am thinking this valve is malfunctioning and not letting > > any oil come through. I pulled the oil pressure sensor that is above > > this passage and blew into it and air came right out of the block no > problem. So the > > passage from the filter flange to the head is fine. It just seems that > > this check valve is stuck or blocked for some reason. It looks like > > it can be removed with a torx tool so I may try to remove it and see > > what is going on in there. > > > > I did pull the cam caps as Skipper suggested. They looked OK until I > > got to cap number 4 and then I got concerned. The others had light > > lines on them, but number 4 is really scored. I am going to try to > > get a new head from the rebuilder to replace this one. > > > > I sent them an email. I will let you know what their response is. > > > > Ken > > > > On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 11:11 PM, Ben <> wrote: > > > >> I'm afraid Karl hit this right on the money. One particular situation > >> stuck in my memory. They sold a transmission to a local shop. When > >> the unit felt too light, the mechanic removed from the shipping > >> pallet to check why that was. The transmission case was completely > empty. > >> > >> > >> BenT > >> > >> sent from my electronic leash > >> > >> > On May 14, 2015, at 5:48 PM, Karl Mullendore > >> > <tdiguru@WESTYVENTURES.COM> > >> wrote: > >> > > >> > Unfortunately this is par for the course with Overland/Eurospec. > >> > > > > > > > > -- > > Thanks, > > Ken Wilford > > John 3:16 > > > > > > > > -- > Thanks, > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > >

-- Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16

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