Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2015 09:35:02 -0700
Reply-To: Mark Hersh <cmwolfsburg@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mark Hersh <cmwolfsburg@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Rear axle torque specs?
In-Reply-To: <37CE5DC1-24F5-492B-88A8-E20F1CF9F0C8@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I have followed this thread because on my way home two weeks ago from the
mechanic's shop (whom I trust) and specifically asked to give my CV joint
and boots a look over, I heard a thump thump thump coming from some wheel
(my guess rear as I'm sitting on top of the fronts) as I slowed down off an
interstate ramp (downhill and slight turn to the left). My thought was
"rear wheel bearing?" So I have followed this thread with some interest.
The noisy CV joints god has been my constant companion it seems ever since
I bought my first VW (Type III Squareback) in 1977.
I don't have a constant thump in this 86 Weekender, and I can't remember if
I was braking when I heard the thump -- I will have to do more driving
diagnostics. I have some other things to do so I'll get to it in a couple
more days... but the whole discussion has been interesting, although some
is over my head.
I liked the description of using a cheater bar and one's weight. Reminded
me of when I did that exact procedure when doing the rear wheel bearings on
a VW Thing I thought I could resurrect...
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 4:34 AM, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Since I started this axle-nut thread I will give and update sometime next
> week on what was found when the mechanic opens the rt wheel rear bearings.
> A reminder of why I brought the Westy in was that several months ago my
> Westy started a constant thump-thump on the rt rear wheel. When turning rt
> only about 30 mph and faster. Checked cv's out and changed them (by
> previous mechanic and several dollars gone) no difference or any ideas. New
> mechanic changed axle bearings, seals, plopped cv on passenger side only
> and tightened axle nut to 369 lbs. then I drove it . 300 miles later
> bearings hot, hot,ouch! To the touch.
> Here we are, next Monday back to the new mechanic to investigate problem.
> My point is that all the responses given are incredible information and I
> thank you all for that. Where else could I get such information? I
> forwarded the majority of the tech stuff to the mechanic hope fully he will
> read it. Well most of it. then I thought maybe he will never talk to me
> again. We will see
>
> Thanks again for a great discussion
>
> Laters,
> Dennis
>
> Dennis Jowell
> Scotch Hollow Farm
> Newbury, Vermont
>
>
> > On Jun 3, 2015, at 10:41 PM, Phil Zimmerman <philzimm1@SHAW.CA> wrote:
> >
> > Bored or otherwise Stuart, let us keep this thread alive until Friday
> where we can get wild and crazy..)
> > Can we (collective) keep you awake until then?
> >
> > In the meantime, here is what one of our fav gurus Dennis Haynes, has
> to say about those pesky rear wheel bearings.
> > With permission from Dennis .. copied from the Samba list:
> >
> > D.H. wrote:
> > I am not really sure of the single question here. Here are some thoughts
> and feel free to share them.
> >
> > The VW or Vanagon rear wheel bearing set up is quite robust and tolerant
> of
> > abuse. Typical life is somewhere between 120K to 160K. Only poor quality
> > parts and stupid stuff creates problems. I have never seen a housing so
> worn
> > that it could not be reused.
> >
> > The bearings consist of an inner bearing which is basically a motor
> bearing
> > and the outer straight roller bearing. The ball bearing provides some
> weight
> > support and carries all the thrust loading. As a ball bearing it will
> have
> > some clearance and it can tolerate some angular error. The outer bearing
> > carries most of the vehicle weight and does not provide any sideways
> > (thrust) support at all.
> >
> > Sometimes the ball bearing may appear loose the housing. The main issue
> here
> > is that the bearing does not spin in the housing. This really is not
> likely
> > under load but when a new bearing is loose some Loctite bearing retaining
> > compound such as the RC680 will take care of that concern.
> > More critical is that the bearing is a proper fit on the shaft. Again
> not an
> > issue unless really bad such as loose and rocking. Once the assembly is
> > tightened up the bearing will be tight with the shaft shoulder and the
> > spacer sleeve.
> >
> > When pressing the shaft into the bearing it is important that you
> actually
> > support the bearing inner race and not just push or hammer the shaft into
> > the bearing with only the outer race supported by the housing. Doing this
> > can cause damage to the races and balls often known as "Brinneling".
> > <
> http://www.google.com/search?q=brinelling&hl=en&rlz=1T4ADBF_enUS307US308&prm
> >
> d=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=phLQT82QHKLx0gHJsYjZDQ&sqi=2&ved=
> > 0CGYQsAQ&biw=1571&bih=852>
> >
> > The bearings can be damaged when a hammer is used to free up stuck drums.
> >
> > As for lubrication it is an extremely bad idea to add a grease fitting.
> What
> > goes in will want to come out and onto the brake shoes it will go. Too
> much
> > grease can also cause excessive churning and heat and make the lubricant
> > fail. Grease does not lubricate the bearings. The oil suspended in it
> does
> > the job. I too have the temptation that more is better. My method of
> adding
> > or changing the rear wheel bearing grease is as follows.
> >
> > Remove the wheel flange and outer seal. Use a thin grease needle and
> place
> > it through the rollers of the outer bearing. Pump in grease until grease
> > comes out the other rollers. Pump out as much old grease as possible.
> Then
> > remove the needle and wipe off all the grease outside the bearing. Run
> the
> > engine in gear to let the shaft spin and push some of the excess grease
> out.
> > Afterwards wipe out that housing again. You want space for more grease to
> > get out after it is all back together. Install the seal with just a bit
> of
> > grease on the lip. Put it all back together being sure to properly torque
> > that big nut.
> >
> > -- Dennis Haynes
> > ------------------------------------
> > Phil z
> > on his rock off the West Coast
>
--
86 Campmobile Six-Seater "Monty"
Black dogs are euthanized at a greater rate than other-colored dogs,
regardless of temperament. Learn about Black Dog Syndrome at
http://www.blackpearldogs.com/ Learn about black dogs in a Vanagon at
http://www.pbase.com/mhersh/image/108220533
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