Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2015 14:57:16 -0400
Reply-To: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Rear axle torque specs?
In-Reply-To: <3F6A78D9-A9A4-43FC-BCD3-B5EBD79A87C2@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Dennis, here is the part number for the sleeve:
211501281E
It appears to be NLA here in the USA. I can get some from Europe in about
a week if you are interested. The last time you could buy them here they
were $48 from VW. I can get new ones for $39 each. Let me know.
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Phil,
> Great information. The nut is definitely hotter than the drum.
> I have a call to the shop this morning. Voice mail only. Here we go again.
> Thanks again for the information.
> Dennis
>
> Dennis Jowell
> Scotch Hollow Farm
> Newbury, Vermont
>
>
> > On Jun 1, 2015, at 1:44 PM, Phil Zimmerman <philzimm1@SHAW.CA> wrote:
> >
> > Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2015 07:04:01 -0400
> > From: Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@GMAIL.COM>
> >
> > Forgot to add that that the rear passenger side wheel bearings and seal
> have been just replaced by a new shop I'm trying to use. Wheel axle nut
> torqued to 360 ft lbs. I then drove the Westy back to my farm 60 miles
> away. Remove hub caps and felt axle nuts on both side of the Westy. The
> passenger side was exceptionally hot. I couldn't hold on to it. The drive
> side was only warm. Hence my be question of torque specs.
> > -------------------
> >
> > Dennis,
> >
> > Just read you last update..
> >
> > Do-not back-off the rear axle nut without first diagnosing your problem
> further.
> >
> > The proper torque procedure of the rear axle nut is to first torque the
> nut to 360 ft lb.
> > Continue to tighten the nut until the next slot in the 10-slot castle
> nut aligns with the hole in the stub-axle for the Cotter Pin.
> > This means that the nut is often torqued to a far higher torque than the
> initial 360 ft lb. (this assembly can easily withstand this level of torque)
> > The length of the spacer-sleeve is what keeps the outer bearing from
> preloaded too-much or not-enough under this level of torque..
> > If the sleeve is worn short the outer bearing will not be pre-loaded
> enough and the assemble too loose and will self-destruct as Ken surmised.
> > If the sleeve was somehow not installed by the shop… you would know it
> already from your 300 mile drive home from your new repair shop.
> > The bearing would not be too hot.. it would probably be destroyed and
> the rear hub assembly really sloppy and make noises.
> >
> > As Ken and others suggest. When the shop re-assembled the rear brakes.
> Real easy to get the shoes too tight in the drum and then drag and generate
> > a great amount of heat… See if after a short drive with little braking…
> spray a small amount of water on the outer part of the brake drum: does the
> water
> > vaporize? Spray that axle nut and see if the water vaporizes more
> violently or less than the outer rim of the Drum. If the Drum appears
> hotter than the axle nut.. Its probably the brake shoes need re-setting. If
> the nut is hotter… probably the bearings need to be removed and checked..
> >
> > good hunting
> >
> > Phil z
> > Off is rock off the West coast
>
--
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
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