Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2015 07:34:27 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Rear axle torque specs?
In-Reply-To: <4367584C-C6B3-4719-9FAA-2A426C8A501E@SHAW.CA>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Since I started this axle-nut thread I will give and update sometime next week on what was found when the mechanic opens the rt wheel rear bearings. A reminder of why I brought the Westy in was that several months ago my Westy started a constant thump-thump on the rt rear wheel. When turning rt only about 30 mph and faster. Checked cv's out and changed them (by previous mechanic and several dollars gone) no difference or any ideas. New mechanic changed axle bearings, seals, plopped cv on passenger side only and tightened axle nut to 369 lbs. then I drove it . 300 miles later bearings hot, hot,ouch! To the touch.
Here we are, next Monday back to the new mechanic to investigate problem. My point is that all the responses given are incredible information and I thank you all for that. Where else could I get such information? I forwarded the majority of the tech stuff to the mechanic hope fully he will read it. Well most of it. then I thought maybe he will never talk to me again. We will see
Thanks again for a great discussion
Laters,
Dennis
Dennis Jowell
Scotch Hollow Farm
Newbury, Vermont
> On Jun 3, 2015, at 10:41 PM, Phil Zimmerman <philzimm1@SHAW.CA> wrote:
>
> Bored or otherwise Stuart, let us keep this thread alive until Friday where we can get wild and crazy..)
> Can we (collective) keep you awake until then?
>
> In the meantime, here is what one of our fav gurus Dennis Haynes, has to say about those pesky rear wheel bearings.
> With permission from Dennis .. copied from the Samba list:
>
> D.H. wrote:
> I am not really sure of the single question here. Here are some thoughts and feel free to share them.
>
> The VW or Vanagon rear wheel bearing set up is quite robust and tolerant of
> abuse. Typical life is somewhere between 120K to 160K. Only poor quality
> parts and stupid stuff creates problems. I have never seen a housing so worn
> that it could not be reused.
>
> The bearings consist of an inner bearing which is basically a motor bearing
> and the outer straight roller bearing. The ball bearing provides some weight
> support and carries all the thrust loading. As a ball bearing it will have
> some clearance and it can tolerate some angular error. The outer bearing
> carries most of the vehicle weight and does not provide any sideways
> (thrust) support at all.
>
> Sometimes the ball bearing may appear loose the housing. The main issue here
> is that the bearing does not spin in the housing. This really is not likely
> under load but when a new bearing is loose some Loctite bearing retaining
> compound such as the RC680 will take care of that concern.
> More critical is that the bearing is a proper fit on the shaft. Again not an
> issue unless really bad such as loose and rocking. Once the assembly is
> tightened up the bearing will be tight with the shaft shoulder and the
> spacer sleeve.
>
> When pressing the shaft into the bearing it is important that you actually
> support the bearing inner race and not just push or hammer the shaft into
> the bearing with only the outer race supported by the housing. Doing this
> can cause damage to the races and balls often known as "Brinneling".
> <http://www.google.com/search?q=brinelling&hl=en&rlz=1T4ADBF_enUS307US308&prm
> d=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=phLQT82QHKLx0gHJsYjZDQ&sqi=2&ved=
> 0CGYQsAQ&biw=1571&bih=852>
>
> The bearings can be damaged when a hammer is used to free up stuck drums.
>
> As for lubrication it is an extremely bad idea to add a grease fitting. What
> goes in will want to come out and onto the brake shoes it will go. Too much
> grease can also cause excessive churning and heat and make the lubricant
> fail. Grease does not lubricate the bearings. The oil suspended in it does
> the job. I too have the temptation that more is better. My method of adding
> or changing the rear wheel bearing grease is as follows.
>
> Remove the wheel flange and outer seal. Use a thin grease needle and place
> it through the rollers of the outer bearing. Pump in grease until grease
> comes out the other rollers. Pump out as much old grease as possible. Then
> remove the needle and wipe off all the grease outside the bearing. Run the
> engine in gear to let the shaft spin and push some of the excess grease out.
> Afterwards wipe out that housing again. You want space for more grease to
> get out after it is all back together. Install the seal with just a bit of
> grease on the lip. Put it all back together being sure to properly torque
> that big nut.
>
> -- Dennis Haynes
> ------------------------------------
> Phil z
> on his rock off the West Coast
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