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Date:         Wed, 10 Jun 2015 20:29:39 -1000
Reply-To:     "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject:      Re: Engine teardown - 2.1L WBX
Comments: To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CA+az7_7WH6Ej11KmkaPW9XBugLCA2N_6f++ExVFSkUwHoKJsDw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Did anyone notice the 'ports' in the non-flywheel end of the piston barrel area of the block ?

one is exposed when the water pump is removed.. the other is cover with a coolant pipe/flange.

Use some extraction device through those holes. Mandatory to heat the piston some ..... not 'tons' ..just some, with oxy-accetylene torch.

'Clever' of VW to make it so you have to use your extraction tool for both piston pins through that one hole.. ( subaru has a hole on each si, fore and aft, conveniently in their opposed 4 engines )

People have used threaded rod . there are exanadable internal grabber tools .( like to grab and extract a oil pressure relief piston say )

A good machine shop that does whole engine rebuilds should have some of those extractor tools.

On 6/10/2015 12:10 PM, John Rodgers wrote: > In an earlier post I told of someone running my engine hot. Result: gotta > have the engine rebuilt. Decided to go all the way with it - all new > everything. Pushrods were bent indicating stuck valves from over heating. > Both heads were cracked beyond any repair so all new AMC heads with new > everything are going back on. > > Right now removal of two piston pins is a problem. Any suggestions on > that. The rebuilder is very good, but this one has him up a stump. I'm sure > he will eventually succeed but any suggestions might be of benefit to speed > matters along. > > Thanks, > > John >


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