Date:         Fri, 12 Jun 2015 18:03:49 -0700
Reply-To:     Jeff Schwaia <vw.doka@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jeff Schwaia <vw.doka@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Engine teardown - 2.1L WBX
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY405-EAS226776ACACA0001C5AE3726A0BA0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Hey Dennis, 

The air-cooled are slip in as well.  Pretty much identical to the WBXer.

Cheers, 

Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Haynes
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2015 5:42 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Engine teardown - 2.1L WBX

Unlike the air cooled engines the piston pins are slip, not press fits. The problem is either a carbon build up or a burr near the snap ring. There is a reamer that can take care of that. Otherwise a 3/8" (9/16" hex) nut and threaded rod can be used to pull the pin out. Be sure to support the piston so as not to put a side load on the connecting rod. 

Dennis


-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of kenneth wilford (Van-Again)
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 10:05 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Engine teardown - 2.1L WBX

Has he tried a slide hammer pilot bearing extraction tool?  Works well.

Ken

On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 8:53 AM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes on the ports. This rebuilder has 42 years experience with VW 
> engines, and usually doesn't miss a trick. But this one is being a 
> pain because it was severely overheated. Probably headed for imminent 
> total failure - broken crankshaft, rod through the block, something 
> like that. Thanks to you and others for the head and valve info. Will get'ter done!
>
> John
> On Jun 11, 2015 1:29 AM, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" < 
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> >  Did anyone notice the 'ports' in the non-flywheel end of the piston 

> > barrel area of the block ?
> >
> > one is exposed when the water pump is removed..
> > the other is cover with a coolant pipe/flange.
> >
> > Use some extraction device through those holes.
> > Mandatory to heat the piston some .....
> >  not 'tons' ..just some, with oxy-accetylene torch.
> >
> > 'Clever' of VW to make it so you have to use your extraction tool 
> > for
> both
> > piston pins through that one hole..
> > ( subaru has a hole on each si, fore and aft,  conveniently in their 

> > opposed 4 engines )
> >
> > People have used threaded rod .
> > there are exanadable internal grabber tools .( like to grab and 
> > extract a oil pressure relief piston say )
> >
> > A good machine shop that does whole engine rebuilds should have some 

> > of those extractor tools.
> >
> > On 6/10/2015 12:10 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > In an earlier post I told of someone running my engine hot. Result: 
> > gotta have the engine rebuilt. Decided to go all the way with it - 
> > all new everything. Pushrods were bent indicating stuck valves from over heating.
> > Both heads were cracked beyond any repair so all new AMC heads with 
> > new everything are going back on.
> >
> > Right now removal of two piston pins is a problem.  Any suggestions 
> > on that. The rebuilder is very good, but this one has him up a 
> > stump. I'm
> sure
> > he will eventually succeed but any suggestions might be of benefit 
> > to
> speed
> > matters along.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
>



--
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com