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Date:         Sat, 4 Jul 2015 15:18:31 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Throttle switch confusion
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
In-Reply-To:  <55978992.cded8c0a.5707.ffffbe4bSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Being as how I'm hung up with this on the weekend, I'm going to do it right. The switch cover was missing to so I just decided to re-do the thing with some new parts. No bending the "thingy" will be involved.

I have an ecu monitor, it will be interesting to see how well it works with the switch. It monitors the switch circuit with a green light at idle, a green light at wide open, and no light in between those two. What tipped me off to a problen was that (1) it was hard to start but ran good once started, but would stumble on initial acceleration, then smooth out.(2) no green light on any throttle setting.

Come Monday all the parts will be here, plus my new oil pressure and oil temp kit!

Thanks for the suggestions, Volks. As always, the Vanagon List is the best!

John On Jul 4, 2015 2:21 AM, "David Beierl" <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> At 03:35 AM 7/3/2015, SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott ) wrote: > >> try this .. >> it's 'cheating' but 'might' get you the result you need. >> >> What I've found is even when the allen screw loosens properly, and the >> eccentric adjusting feature works.. >> sometimes.. >> it still won't adjust to the correct setting. I aim for contact at >> closed throttle and it uncontacting 'just off' idle. >> > > It runs into two problems -- cam wear to some slight extent maybe, and the > throttle plate shaft wandering around as the throttle body wears. On a new > one you can set it by the book. On a worn one you may have to adjust as > you mention below and you also may have to set it with vacuum applied to > the throttle body either by running engine or a shop vac. You may alsow > have to allow for the throttle cable not *quite* returning to zero in cold > weather when released gently. > > > I've had to bend the little metal tab thingey that the cam pushes on. >> Like with a needle nose pliers. >> > > That's the operating arm of the switch. It presses on the little > button/shaft that actually enters the switch and moves the element so that > it snaps from one configuration to the other. It (the Microswitch-type > switch) is a design of genius, with a stressed moving contact that holds on > to its existing shape until it's pushed noticeably past center, then > abruptly snaps into the other shape. It has built-in hysteresis, extremely > rapid switching action and stable and precise actuating points. On this > switch it's operated by that little lever which is pivoted on little holes > in the switch body. Be careful not to overstress them when bending the > lever. > > John's big problem right now is the little adjusting cam has lost its > means of holding on to a hex key, so he has to remove that cam entirely and > move the adjusting plate by hand. And I forgot to tell him he might have > to bend the switch lever as you said. > > Yrs, > d >


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