Vanagon EuroVan
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Date:         Sun, 19 Jul 2015 17:36:30 -0400
Reply-To:     Michael <mikewelldon@ICLOUD.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Michael <mikewelldon@ICLOUD.COM>
Subject:      Re: Vanagon overheating on trip
Comments: To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAFnDXk1mWemMkzy2Hf29Scj8RzCFF3_L_r=NWWAXniCKqGnjOA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Thanks to everyone who has replied and offered their advice!

I am going to try basically everything starting with the cheapest ideas first.

Viva le van!

Mike

> On Jul 18, 2015, at 9:35 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote: > > One thing that should be checked is the connector going into the tank level > sensor. If the connection isn't good, the light will blink and it SEEMS > (can't prove this and don't know enough about the circuit to say whether it > is true, unlikely or impossible) that this bad connection is also > accompanied by a slight rise in indicated temperature by the needle. Bend > the tabs to make better contact, use a file or sandpaper if you have such,

> and disconnect ad reconnect a bunch of times to clear away oxidation and > dirt. > > Jim > >> On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 4:59 PM Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> Neil and Stuart brought up a point that I intended to mention. You can't

>> just drive around without a working radiator fan. BTDT and learned the >> hard way. It turns around and bites you at the most critical time. >> >> Fuses should be checked of course, but I feel that the most "usual suspect" >> is the big power resistor that is mounted behind your driver's side >> headlight. The "air conditioning" section of the Bentley is relevant here >> even tho your AC is not hooked up. In my big book page 97.141 shows the >> circuitry for the '88. Extract the device from the van and test it with an >> ohmmeter. If any of the three terminals fails to show continuity to the >> other two, it is defective. With soldering skill and determination these

>> can be patched up, but the repair will probably not last. The usual >> vendors sell the coresponding part for the Eurovan and the connector can be >> spliced on from your old resistor. In the past few years I have found this >> problem on three of my late model vanagons with AC. >> >> Have fun, >> Larry A. >> >> >> On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Michael <mikewelldon@icloud.com> wrote:

>> >>>> >>>> Overheating issue/88 Westy auto with 2.2 Subaru >>>> and non-connected factory A/C >>>> >>>> >>>> What is happening: >>>> >>>> >>>> I've been driving the van now for about 1,000 miles after having a new >>> cooling hose put on at the thermo housing. The van has not overheat on >>> numerous trips since then, both country driving and city driving. >>>> At the end of a 90 mile journey (getting ready to get on a ferry to an >>> island), just as I was shutting the van off the red light started.We were >>> parked on a steep hill with the nose facing downward. >>>> >>>> >>>> Got off the ferry and onto this island (no more ferries tonight) and >>> upon about 10 minutes of driving the red light is back and the needle is

>>> slightly above the warning light. Stopped the van and have begun checking >>> things out. This is what I've thought of so far: >>>> >>>> >>>> What is known: >>>> 1. No leaks that I can find. Checked hose connections, checked rear >>> heater core, checked the ground. >>>> 2. No radiator fan. The van has gone 1,000 miles since the fan died and

>>> the temperature needle has stayed at the top of the warning light on the

>>> dash. >>>> 3. Temperature gauge. The first 800 or so miles the needle would stay >> at >>> the top of the warning light and not move. The past week the needle has >>> started to "shift." When going at a higher rate of speed or downhill the

>>> needle will actually lower to halfway on the warning light, and sometimes >>> below it. Great! Until now, now the needle is slightly above the >> coolant >>> warning light and the light flashes its angry warning to me. >>>> >>>> 4. Coolant levels. The coolant level in the tank is at the min, which >> is >>> lower than I remember it being a week ago. The expansion tank is about a

>>> half inch above max. Question: Can i open the coolant tank and move >>> coolant from the expansion tank to the coolant tank without having to >> burp >>> the system? >>>> >>>> 5. Upon starting the van, didn't see any coolant move from tank or >>> overflow tank. I'm quite new at vanagon cooling systems (and cooling >>> systems in general) so my guess is that it's just not circulating yet and >>> would eventually once the engine heated up. >>>> >>>> >>>> So, my hope is that the van has magically fixed itself overnight and >>> when I start it again the blinking red light will stay off. If, however, >>> the van is not self-repairing, does anyone have any ideas? >>>> >>>> >>>> I really don't think it's the radiator fan for the simple fact that >> I've >>> done a bunch of travelling in all sorts of warm weather, stop and go >>> traffic and circumstances where if the fan was the culprit, the van would >>> have all ready overheated. My thought is that the thermo may not be >>> opening all the way or there is a blockage somewhere in the system. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> If anyone has any good ideas or questions or directional advice on >> where >>> to start, that'd be great. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Viva le vanagon! >>>> >>>> >>>> Mike >>


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