Vanagon EuroVan
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Date:         Sat, 25 Jul 2015 11:41:27 -0400
Reply-To:     Michael <mikewelldon@ICLOUD.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Michael <mikewelldon@ICLOUD.COM>
Subject:      Re: Vanagon overheating on trip
Comments: To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAFnDXk1mWemMkzy2Hf29Scj8RzCFF3_L_r=NWWAXniCKqGnjOA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi again everyone,

Update: change the resistor and get clicking noise when jumping the plug.

Also, the brown wire (according to Bentley 97.85) for the relay connection for the fan goes absolutely nowhere. The wire was just placed in between a couple of fuses haphazardly and came right out.

Probably should be connected but I have no idea where and on that Bentley page I don't know what I'm looking at.

Mike

> On Jul 18, 2015, at 9:35 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote: > > One thing that should be checked is the connector going into the tank level > sensor. If the connection isn't good, the light will blink and it SEEMS > (can't prove this and don't know enough about the circuit to say whether it > is true, unlikely or impossible) that this bad connection is also > accompanied by a slight rise in indicated temperature by the needle. Bend > the tabs to make better contact, use a file or sandpaper if you have such,

> and disconnect ad reconnect a bunch of times to clear away oxidation and > dirt. > > Jim > >> On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 4:59 PM Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> Neil and Stuart brought up a point that I intended to mention. You can't

>> just drive around without a working radiator fan. BTDT and learned the >> hard way. It turns around and bites you at the most critical time. >> >> Fuses should be checked of course, but I feel that the most "usual suspect" >> is the big power resistor that is mounted behind your driver's side >> headlight. The "air conditioning" section of the Bentley is relevant here >> even tho your AC is not hooked up. In my big book page 97.141 shows the >> circuitry for the '88. Extract the device from the van and test it with an >> ohmmeter. If any of the three terminals fails to show continuity to the >> other two, it is defective. With soldering skill and determination these

>> can be patched up, but the repair will probably not last. The usual >> vendors sell the coresponding part for the Eurovan and the connector can be >> spliced on from your old resistor. In the past few years I have found this >> problem on three of my late model vanagons with AC. >> >> Have fun, >> Larry A. >> >> >> On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Michael <mikewelldon@icloud.com> wrote:

>> >>>> >>>> Overheating issue/88 Westy auto with 2.2 Subaru >>>> and non-connected factory A/C >>>> >>>> >>>> What is happening: >>>> >>>> >>>> I've been driving the van now for about 1,000 miles after having a new >>> cooling hose put on at the thermo housing. The van has not overheat on >>> numerous trips since then, both country driving and city driving. >>>> At the end of a 90 mile journey (getting ready to get on a ferry to an >>> island), just as I was shutting the van off the red light started.We were >>> parked on a steep hill with the nose facing downward. >>>> >>>> >>>> Got off the ferry and onto this island (no more ferries tonight) and >>> upon about 10 minutes of driving the red light is back and the needle is

>>> slightly above the warning light. Stopped the van and have begun checking >>> things out. This is what I've thought of so far: >>>> >>>> >>>> What is known: >>>> 1. No leaks that I can find. Checked hose connections, checked rear >>> heater core, checked the ground. >>>> 2. No radiator fan. The van has gone 1,000 miles since the fan died and

>>> the temperature needle has stayed at the top of the warning light on the

>>> dash. >>>> 3. Temperature gauge. The first 800 or so miles the needle would stay >> at >>> the top of the warning light and not move. The past week the needle has >>> started to "shift." When going at a higher rate of speed or downhill the

>>> needle will actually lower to halfway on the warning light, and sometimes >>> below it. Great! Until now, now the needle is slightly above the >> coolant >>> warning light and the light flashes its angry warning to me. >>>> >>>> 4. Coolant levels. The coolant level in the tank is at the min, which >> is >>> lower than I remember it being a week ago. The expansion tank is about a

>>> half inch above max. Question: Can i open the coolant tank and move >>> coolant from the expansion tank to the coolant tank without having to >> burp >>> the system? >>>> >>>> 5. Upon starting the van, didn't see any coolant move from tank or >>> overflow tank. I'm quite new at vanagon cooling systems (and cooling >>> systems in general) so my guess is that it's just not circulating yet and >>> would eventually once the engine heated up. >>>> >>>> >>>> So, my hope is that the van has magically fixed itself overnight and >>> when I start it again the blinking red light will stay off. If, however, >>> the van is not self-repairing, does anyone have any ideas? >>>> >>>> >>>> I really don't think it's the radiator fan for the simple fact that >> I've >>> done a bunch of travelling in all sorts of warm weather, stop and go >>> traffic and circumstances where if the fan was the culprit, the van would >>> have all ready overheated. My thought is that the thermo may not be >>> opening all the way or there is a blockage somewhere in the system. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> If anyone has any good ideas or questions or directional advice on >> where >>> to start, that'd be great. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Viva le vanagon! >>>> >>>> >>>> Mike >>


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