Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 20:00:19 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Front shocks replacement question
In-Reply-To: <0F35D873-0A19-447E-B127-78D18CF12AE1@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Think this through apply some trigonometry. During normal operation the weight of the van is sitting on the wheel with the lower control arm acting like a lever. The inner control arm mount is the pivot point with the spring providing force down and the tire providing force up. The position of the spring in relationship to the tire and the pivot point is no accident. That carefully engineered so the spring and shock would respond a particular way to forces as they change. Jacking the arm between the spring and that pivot will increase the force required at the jack and on the pivot to keep the spring compressed. Generally what happens is the arm will pivot down and at some point make it slide off the jack. When shops use those under carriage jacks (alignment racks) incorrectly stuff can get damaged. I have seen the stamped control arms get bent, the inner mounts torn out and even the mounting tabs on the chassis damaged from lifting to close to that pivot. In general when lifting a spring loaded suspension part the closer to the wheel the better.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Eric Caron
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2015 6:24 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Front shocks replacement question
Hi Stuart and others,
I’m still planning to do the front shocks, but decided to do the back ones first. and, that went very well and other then one moment of concern it went great. I now have new back shocks.
The moment of concern was the that the shock didn’t immediately fit in the holder. the metal bracket was compressed so I had to end it out slightly so the new shocks would fit. after that they went in easy and were easy to adjust so that the bolts would go back in place.
One question about the front shocks on my 85.
is it really best to place the jack between the shock opening and the wheel? It looks fragile there. Would it be ok or better to place the jack on the other side of the shock closer to the center of the van?
Sory for the naive question but I’m always concerned about jack placement until someone shows me where it is clearly safe.
thanks again for the great tips. It is satisfying to have done the back shocks on my own. Along with the recent front brake success I’m feeling pretty good right now!
Eric Caron
85 GL Auto Westfalia
> On Aug 4, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> I just replaced my son's on Sunday (second time I've done this job, first was on my '85), and you don't need a spring compressor, you use the vehicle's weight. You need a full size floor jack and stands. First, jack up the front high enough to get the wheels off and lower the van on to stands under the cross member. Have chocks under both sides of both wheels that are on the ground.
>
> You then use the jack under the lower control arm as near to the brake backing plate as you can get it so you don't block the opening where the shock will have to drop down. Raise the jack, compressing the spring, until you are lifting the van off the jack stands slightly. This should be enough to compress the spring adequately for installing the shock, it has been for me anyway. If not, you can have an assistant sit in the front seat.
>
> A ratcheting 17 mm box wrench is a joy on this job, and use an adjustable crescent wrench to hold the shaft at the top. For the '85 with pressed steel lower control arms the lower shock bolt is inside the box. I used a 1/2" drive air wrench with an extension to get at it. It's a 19mm bolt and nut. Tighten to 110 ft lbs.
>
> The van has to be high enough to get the shock in and out from the bottom. You will reinstall the dust shield onto the shock and then the spacer tube over the shaft on top of the dust shield that is in the old rubber bushing. Just get the top nut started to hang the shock and then you should be able to align the lower bolt easily (adjust the jack if necessary). Then tighten the top nut fully until it tightens against the spacer.
>
> For the rears, you also need to support the rear lower control arm with a jack, but these shocks are bolted top and bottom and easy to replace.
>
> All four should take no more than a couple hours.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Eric Caron
> Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 6:15 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Front shocks replacement question
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I have a retired auto body and frame repair man as a neighbor and helper. he also restores older cars and builds street rods.
> I have my new shocks here and he is offering to install them with me. He looked at my Bently and thought it looked pretty straight forward.
> So, first cool thing is he is willing to be my eyes and let me do much of the work.
>
> My only concern is that the front shocks are in the springs. he seemed to think they would come out safely without a spring compressor. Is that true? i thought folks here said it was needed. We didn’t read anything about that in the Bently.
>
> any safety tips would be appreciated.
>
> Eric Caron
> 85 GL auto westfalia.
>
