Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2015 17:44:46 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
In-Reply-To: <55F9C8D5.8050602@turbovans.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
OK, I have the removal of parts to get to the H2O pump well under way.
Three of the allen head socket bolts came out with minamal fuss, the lowest
one, the one on the bottom left of the pump, the one that holds the big
metal pipe in place, I cannot remove. I can't even get the proper 6mm allen
wrench to fit into the hole in the head. It appears, by way of inspection
mirror, to have been slightly buggared on installation of the pump last
time. This this is really tough to get when every thing is right and
perfect, but now, I'm lost as to how to get this out. Very little working
room. I our aircraft maintenance shop in such circumstance I would use a
fresh sharp edged allen wrench and drive it with a hammer into the head,
then back it out. There is no room for this in this case. I'm open to
suggestions, Volks.
Thanks
John
On Sep 16, 2015 14:54, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> let us know how it goes John,
> Depending on a few factors....replacing the w. pump on a 2.1 can be really
> a lot 'fun' ..
> as in insanely difficult sometimes.
> Fortify yourself with plenty of patience.
>
> that cross-over pipe ...is geniously captured behind the crank shaft
> pulley, for example.
> those 6mm allen screws ..which can be badly stuck, and hard to access ..(
> I have a cut-off 6mm allen wrench specifically for the lower screw on the
> w. pump ) ...
> and in a bad case, have spent an hour on that one screw alone.
>
> going back together ..I manage to find a few rare M8 X 1.25 small hex head
> screws to use instead.
> a 13mm hex head one won't work ..
> but 12mm hex head ones will, as well as a very rear bolt in that thread
> with a 10mm hex head.
> Way mo' easy to get out next time.
>
> I strongly recommend Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on the threads of
> all screws going back together...
> stick's em nicely, prevents corrosion, comes apart smoothly years later.
> have done it a million times...and I would not dream of assembling those
> screws bare metal-to-metal.
>
> have fun !
> Scott
>
> On 9/15/2015 5:23 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Dennis, thanks. I will give this a good look in the morning with your
> printed instructions at my side.
>
> John
> On Sep 15, 2015 7:56 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> If you're not looking to do a complete coolant change then begin by
> disconnecting the hose from the pressure tank to the water pump inlet. Then
> remove the bolts holding that pipe to the water pump and disconnect the
> small oil cooler hoe from the pump. Coolant will rush out of the pipe and
> pump opening. Tilt the pipe down and more coolant will flow out. Then
> remove the bolts holding the crossover pipe from the bottom of the pump.
> This will pretty much drain the pump chamber.
>
> Loosen the nut holding the oil cooler in place. Slide down just a bit. You
> should now be able to remove the three nuts holding the pump. A short 13mm
> socket on a 3" wobble extension should help get that bottom one off. You
> should then be able to remove the pump. You will have to pry that pipe down
> enough to tilt the pump and get it clear of the studs. You may want to
> replace the hose on the other side of the pulley.
> Remove the 6mm (10mm head) bolt the holds the other oil cooler pipe to the
> head. With the pump out you should be able to manage replacing both of
> those hoses. Finish removing the cooler and replace that oil O-ring. Use
> good clamps, spring or crimp. For the hose that connects to the oil cooler
> feed you will find that it is likely the wrong size for that pipe. It is a
> loose fit. Install shrink tube on the pipe and the fit will be perfect.
>
> Carefully check the water pump pipe for corrosion especially near the
> heater return fitting. This piece likes to leak or even break off.
>
> You can do most of this job from above. Replace the Allen socket screws
> and washers preferably with stainless.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf
> Of John Rodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 11:31 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
>
> I need to drain some/all coolant in order to replace hoses on oil cooler
> and coolant pump. From a practical do-it-yourself point of view (picture
> laying on your back under the van in the slightly slanted driveway) what
> would be the best approach. Can't move the vehicle from where it sits.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
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