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Date:         Tue, 22 Sep 2015 21:18:32 -0400
Reply-To:     Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
Comments: To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CA+az7_7a1j5Kon7pZC7O0mH7OSHrhVEs-4KzgLm4YirLJh2snQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

John, Can you get a drill bit lined up well enough to drill the head off the bolt? Maybe with a right-angle drive? Do you have a Dremel?

Larry A.

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 7:43 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have another cross over pipe in hand. Will look tomorrow to see how close > to the pump I can cut it off with a sawsall. Will go from there. > It looks like I can snake that pipe put of there once it's cut, and IF I > remove the rubber hose - but can I? > > John > On Sep 22, 2015 17:46, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" < > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > > > I was going to suggest that .. > > remove w. pump with pipe attached.. > > but ...it's a tight fit getting the bare pump out ... > > haven't ever tried it, but wouldn't surprise me if it can't come out with > > pipe attached. > > > > don't have to pull the entire engine .. > > just lower the back down a good ways. > > like up to a foot down in the back ..watch all wires, hoses, and cables > of > > course..that they are not pulled on . > > Then the whole muffler and all that can come off. > > > > the muffler heat shield ...a 'fun' VW trick there.. > > the only way it really goes off and on ... > > like to install it, it has to be sitting on the engine, over the muffler > ( > > and attached to the engine cross bar bolts on the bottom if you want ) > > ....then raise engine. > > > > Just be very patient, and determined .. > > good working conditions ...do things to get good access to what you're > > working on . > > a couple of St. Johns Wart supplementa to reduce stress .... > > you'll get it. > > I would work more on getting the screw head cut off, or the screw > > unscrewed, at this point. > > scott > > On 9/22/2015 12:18 PM, John Rodgers wrote: > > > > Work, frustrating work on this problem continues. The grinding/cutoff of > > the screw head didn't work. Space to small to get my grinding tools > down/up > > to the screw head. > > > > New question. The cross over pipe is connected by a short hose to a > flanged > > fitting bolted to the right hand head (as seen from the rear of the > > vehicle). If I remove that end, and take off that hose, will I be able to > > remove the pump the pump with pipe attached? I could then get at the > screw! > > > > Man, I'm having nightmares about having to pull an engine to have > clearance > > enough to grip that screw frim the outside of the head. Please tell me > > another way! Would it be possible to chisel it off with a tool steel > chisel? > > > > John > > On Sep 21, 2015 16:39, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" < > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > > > > > > that's a great idea John.. > > cut the head of the screw off. > > that'll work ! > > > > you'll have to get another screw ...very small penalty to pay. > > and the remaining stud can just stay in the water pump which just goes > > into metal recycling anyway.l > > Scott > > > > On 9/21/2015 11:32 AM, John Rodgers wrote: > > > > Scott, > > Thanks for the encouragement! I think this one has me whipped. I think I > am > > going to have to cut the head of the bolt off with an air driven cutoff > > tool, or pehaps a Dremel or Foredom tool. I have both. I've been futzing > > with this all day and gotten nowhere. I think my Foredom with long shaft > > and skinny chuck will get down in there. > > On Sep 21, 2015 15:58, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" < > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > > > > > > Really a lot of 'fun' ...down to the One Last fastener. > > > > in rock climbing the hardest move on a route is called the Crux ... > > like once you get bast the crux ..the rest is relatively not too > difficult. > > > > The One Fastener ...get past this point and the rest is fairly easy. > > > > I love to unscrew stuck allen head bolts with a cold chisel and hammer .. > > and ...a long cold chisel is a pretty rare tool , don't know how/where I > > got mine .. > > sure is handy sometimes. > > and ...might not be able to get in there anyway. > > > > is the rear of the van elevated ..like on jack stands so you can get > under > > there easily. > > I find it's always worth the effort to make working conditions better and > > stuff more accessible. > > So you can really get in there and root around and dig in ...and master > > the beast. > > Scott > > > > On 9/21/2015 12:52 AM, John Rodgers wrote: > > > > Scott, I'm going to try the wiggler/universal thing this morn. I think > > someone installed these extra, extra tight metal to metal with no > > anti-sieze. They were really in there. Just this one to go. > > > > John > > On Sep 21, 2015 00:25, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" < > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > > > > > > I have used the 'drive a good allen tool into the screw' method on that > > screw.. > > on a pretty long extension ..like 14inches at least. > > > > also ..very important...hitting the screw sharply with a blow helps > > considerable to 'wake up the threads' .. > > to the degree that... > > say you're removing a 6mm allen CV joint screw ..and you can just feel > > that it's about to strip..the tool in the screw head. > > You give another 10 very sharp whacks with a good drift and ball been > > hammer. > > > > try to loosen the screw again...still feels like's going to strip ., > > 10 more really sharp whacks with drift and hammer. > > > > eventually ...with the same amount of rotational force applied to the > > screw..it will unscrew. > > > > the large pipe screws your water pump .. > > getting 'dead on' center with a tool can be a trick ...like things are in > > the way .. > > I've used a wobble drive extension to compenstate the the angle before > > ..and that can work. > > > > Never put screws like this in bare metal-to-metal .. > > and never make them extra, extra tight. > > > > On 9/20/2015 12:44 PM, John Rodgers wrote: > > > > OK, I have the removal of parts to get to the H2O pump well under way. > > Three of the allen head socket bolts came out with minamal fuss, the > lowest > > one, the one on the bottom left of the pump, the one that holds the big > > metal pipe in place, I cannot remove. I can't even get the proper 6mm > allen > > wrench to fit into the hole in the head. It appears, by way of > inspection > > mirror, to have been slightly buggared on installation of the pump last > > time. This this is really tough to get when every thing is right and > > perfect, but now, I'm lost as to how to get this out. Very little working > > room. I our aircraft maintenance shop in such circumstance I would use a > > fresh sharp edged allen wrench and drive it with a hammer into the head, > > then back it out. There is no room for this in this case. I'm open to > > suggestions, Volks. > > > > Thanks > > > > John > > On Sep 16, 2015 14:54, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" < > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > > > > > > let us know how it goes John, > > Depending on a few factors....replacing the w. pump on a 2.1 can be > > really a lot 'fun' .. > > as in insanely difficult sometimes. > > Fortify yourself with plenty of patience. > > > > that cross-over pipe ...is geniously captured behind the crank shaft > > pulley, for example. > > those 6mm allen screws ..which can be badly stuck, and hard to access > > ..( I have a cut-off 6mm allen wrench specifically for the lower screw on > > the w. pump ) ... > > and in a bad case, have spent an hour on that one screw alone. > > > > going back together ..I manage to find a few rare M8 X 1.25 small hex > > head screws to use instead. > > a 13mm hex head one won't work .. > > but 12mm hex head ones will, as well as a very rear bolt in that thread > > with a 10mm hex head. > > Way mo' easy to get out next time. > > > > I strongly recommend Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on the threads of > > all screws going back together... > > stick's em nicely, prevents corrosion, comes apart smoothly years later. > > have done it a million times...and I would not dream of assembling those > > screws bare metal-to-metal. > > > > have fun ! > > Scott > > > > On 9/15/2015 5:23 PM, John Rodgers wrote: > > > > Dennis, thanks. I will give this a good look in the morning with your > > printed instructions at my side. > > > > John > > On Sep 15, 2015 7:56 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> < > d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> < > d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> < > d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> < > d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > If you're not looking to do a complete coolant change then begin by > > disconnecting the hose from the pressure tank to the water pump inlet. > Then > > remove the bolts holding that pipe to the water pump and disconnect the > > small oil cooler hoe from the pump. Coolant will rush out of the pipe and > > pump opening. Tilt the pipe down and more coolant will flow out. Then > > remove the bolts holding the crossover pipe from the bottom of the pump. > > This will pretty much drain the pump chamber. > > > > Loosen the nut holding the oil cooler in place. Slide down just a bit. > You > > should now be able to remove the three nuts holding the pump. A short > 13mm > > socket on a 3" wobble extension should help get that bottom one off. You > > should then be able to remove the pump. You will have to pry that pipe > down > > enough to tilt the pump and get it clear of the studs. You may want to > > replace the hose on the other side of the pulley. > > Remove the 6mm (10mm head) bolt the holds the other oil cooler pipe to > the > > head. With the pump out you should be able to manage replacing both of > > those hoses. Finish removing the cooler and replace that oil O-ring. Use > > good clamps, spring or crimp. For the hose that connects to the oil > cooler > > feed you will find that it is likely the wrong size for that pipe. It is > a > > loose fit. Install shrink tube on the pipe and the fit will be perfect. > > > > Carefully check the water pump pipe for corrosion especially near the > > heater return fitting. This piece likes to leak or even break off. > > > > You can do most of this job from above. Replace the Allen socket screws > > and washers preferably with stainless. > > > > Dennis > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com < > vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> < > vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> < > vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> < > vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf > > Of John Rodgers > > Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 11:31 AM > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L > > > > I need to drain some/all coolant in order to replace hoses on oil cooler > > and coolant pump. From a practical do-it-yourself point of view (picture > > laying on your back under the van in the slightly slanted driveway) what > > would be the best approach. Can't move the vehicle from where it sits. > > > > John > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


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