Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 20:44:08 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Water Pump Replacement -2.1 L WBX
In-Reply-To: <560B3034.6090505@turbovans.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I won't go into all the details with that curved pipe except to say I
learned how many angels can dance on the head of a pin. The pipe went
through. The new hose right of the crank pulley went on easy. The pump
slid on the three studs beautifully. But getting the nut on the bottom
right stud was a bear. It might have gone a little easier if I had - not a
universal -but instead a 3/8 drive wiggler with a 13 mm socket. I didn't
have one and wasn't going to by a whole set right now at $90. A friend with
some fingers longer than mine, and some specially ground tool came over
and lent a hand, literally. With my stubs there was no way. Gotta give a
shoutout to Matt Yester, Subiegon driver. He also helped wrap up all the
top side work!
With a little time I could do better. But to do the job, I recommend you
have that particular one in your tool kit. The third pump stud was
accesable from below. Everything water pump related finished up fairly
easy. All bolts and screws got a coat of anti-sieze before reassembly. The
cross over pipe flange at the pump still requires the allen head screws. A
hex head space problem. However, the flange on the pipe running foward to
the thermostat provide enough space to use hex head bolt. Do them and the
allen head screws in stainless with anti-sieze compound.
Tomorrow I begin to reassemble the oil cooler, hoses and filter.
John
On Sep 29, 2015 19:43, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> does not surprise me that the new one won't slide in place , even with
> some good fiddling.
>
> this is a classic VW gotcha in that things must be done in the right order
> or you can be in a lot of trouble..
> and they were not smart enough to foresee issues like you are having.
>
> All you need is like 1/8th of an inch 'more' somewhere, right ?
> heck ..even 1/16th more might do it.
> This is why I think engineers are stupid.
>
> if there is a way to flatten the new pipe just enough ,,without harming
> dimensions , or alignment, or angularity, or the ends etc. ..
> you might try that.
>
>
> Traditionally ..
> VW had a bad habit of stacking things on top of each other.
> In an early swing-axle transalxe...for example...
> to get at any part of it that's major or internal ..
> say like remove the axles ...
> you start at the big nuts on the brake drums and you work your way inward
> ...
> all the way to the ring and pinion if needed. There's nothing like just
> unbolting the axles like our Vanagons have.
>
> why would anyone build it so that pipe can't come in and out easily unless
> the crank pulley is removed..
> and to get that part off..
> the entire rear exhaust and muffler heat shield has to be out of the way
> ? Just dumb.
>
> I will say though, overall Vanagons are one of the easiest cars, and VW's
> to work on, by far .
>
> On 9/28/2015 11:09 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Well, I've tried every way I know to pass the "U" shaped part of the cross
> over pipe under the crank pulley but no go. The old one came out easy
> enough, but I can't get the new one through. Any suggestions?
>
> John
> On Sep 27, 2015 17:44, "John Rodgers" <jrodgers113@gmail.com> <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> OK. Pump is out. New one ready to go in. To get the old pump out, I Wound
> up sawing the coss over pipe off next to the pump because of a bound up
> allen head screw. New cross over pipe ready to go. New rubber hose already
> in place.
>
> Question: Which should go on first for ease of assembly. The water pump,
> or the cross over pipe - the part that attaches to the pump.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
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