Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 16:18:59 -1000
Reply-To: "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject: Re: Water Pump Replacement -2.1 L WBX
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_6UoPb=H1RMG1oo63SxnwoS2nDbJxfy+ExV+21H-Ao+RA@mail.gmail.com>
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That nut-starting skill comes with practice ..LOTS of it.
I can start that nut balanced on One Finger, no kidding.
I've also done that sort of thing about 5,000 times in the last 50+ years.
another trick ..
get a deep socket ..put something in it like another nut ..
or some tape , something ..such that the nut is flush with the socket
face.....then you use that as a holder tool to start the nut.
gotta try every trick you can think of.
like stick the nut in a socket with tape .
no all M8 X 1.25 scews come with only 13mm hex head or allen head, heads.
When I see 'em I keep them in a special box..
particularily that screw with 10mm hex head.
Also 12mm nex head..a place like Fastenal can probably get that screw
in 12mm hex head.
"Every little bit helps" in making that job less painful.
hot dog ..almost running again.
scott
On 9/29/2015 3:44 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> I won't go into all the details with that curved pipe except to say I
> learned how many angels can dance on the head of a pin. The pipe went
> through. The new hose right of the crank pulley went on easy. The
> pump slid on the three studs beautifully. But getting the nut on the
> bottom right stud was a bear. It might have gone a little easier if I
> had - not a universal -but instead a 3/8 drive wiggler with a 13 mm
> socket. I didn't have one and wasn't going to by a whole set right now
> at $90. A friend with some fingers longer than mine, and some
> specially ground tool came over and lent a hand, literally. With my
> stubs there was no way. Gotta give a shoutout to Matt Yester, Subiegon
> driver. He also helped wrap up all the top side work!
>
> With a little time I could do better. But to do the job, I recommend
> you have that particular one in your tool kit. The third pump stud was
> accesable from below. Everything water pump related finished up fairly
> easy. All bolts and screws got a coat of anti-sieze before reassembly.
> The cross over pipe flange at the pump still requires the allen head
> screws. A hex head space problem. However, the flange on the pipe
> running foward to the thermostat provide enough space to use hex head
> bolt. Do them and the allen head screws in stainless with anti-sieze
> compound.
>
> Tomorrow I begin to reassemble the oil cooler, hoses and filter.
>
> John
>
> On Sep 29, 2015 19:43, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )"
> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com <mailto:scottdaniel@turbovans.com>> wrote:
>
> does not surprise me that the new one won't slide in place , even
> with some good fiddling.
>
> this is a classic VW gotcha in that things must be done in the
> right order or you can be in a lot of trouble..
> and they were not smart enough to foresee issues like you are having.
>
> All you need is like 1/8th of an inch 'more' somewhere, right ?
> heck ..even 1/16th more might do it.
> This is why I think engineers are stupid.
>
> if there is a way to flatten the new pipe just enough ,,without
> harming dimensions , or alignment, or angularity, or the ends etc. ..
> you might try that.
>
>
> Traditionally ..
> VW had a bad habit of stacking things on top of each other.
> In an early swing-axle transalxe...for example...
> to get at any part of it that's major or internal ..
> say like remove the axles ...
> you start at the big nuts on the brake drums and you work your
> way inward ...
> all the way to the ring and pinion if needed. There's nothing
> like just unbolting the axles like our Vanagons have.
>
> why would anyone build it so that pipe can't come in and out
> easily unless the crank pulley is removed..
> and to get that part off..
> the entire rear exhaust and muffler heat shield has to be out of
> the way ? Just dumb.
>
> I will say though, overall Vanagons are one of the easiest cars,
> and VW's to work on, by far .
>
> On 9/28/2015 11:09 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>> Well, I've tried every way I know to pass the "U" shaped part of the cross
>> over pipe under the crank pulley but no go. The old one came out easy
>> enough, but I can't get the new one through. Any suggestions?
>>
>> John
>> On Sep 27, 2015 17:44, "John Rodgers"<jrodgers113@gmail.com> <mailto:jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> OK. Pump is out. New one ready to go in. To get the old pump out, I Wound
>>> up sawing the coss over pipe off next to the pump because of a bound up
>>> allen head screw. New cross over pipe ready to go. New rubber hose already
>>> in place.
>>>
>>> Question: Which should go on first for ease of assembly. The water pump,
>>> or the cross over pipe - the part that attaches to the pump.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>
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