Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 17:46:31 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Propane tank restore or replace
In-Reply-To: <4BE037EE-D548-416F-962A-10DBD6C41349@NBNet.nb.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Once the tank is filed with any amount of "liquid" propane the pressure is
dependent on temperature. On a hot day with road heat sinking into the tank
you can get 200 psi in there.
http://docs.engineeringtoolbox.com/documents/1020/propane_C3H8_vapour_pressu
re.pdf
The tank is an AME rated tank, not DOT. The inspections/testing for the DOT
tanks are not required.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Roy Nicholl
Sent: Tuesday, October 6, 2015 11:41 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Propane tank restore or replace
Stamped somewhere on your tank, or on a plate attached to the tank, should
be the date it was manufactured. Years ago, when I worked propane as a
summer student, we would not fill exposed vehicle tanks which were more than
X-years old unless they had been re-certified within the last 5-years.
Luckily the tanks on our Westies are not that big and, while not under
tremendous pressure, they are under enough to cause some real damage when
they fail - I've only seen regulators and valves being blown out as a result
of their insertion points in the tank deteriorating (threads), but have
heard of the ends of under vehicle tanks being ripped open as the result of
one or more pin-sized holes from rust.
When I bought the Hyena last year ('88 WBX), I had the tank pressure tested,
and I tested all lines and fittings, before using it.
On 06-Oct-2015, at 11:45, Nick Feickert wrote:
> Ok. I've been reading a lot in the archives on options for the tank.
> My plan was to remove all the fittings, refinish the tank with POR-15
> and fresh white paint, replace the regulator, shut off valve, and
> maybe the fill valve. Bleeder valve looks good as does the fill valve
> but I noticed that the rubber gasket in the inside end has a small gap
> in it. Anyway, I see the new tanks offered by GW, BD, Van Cafe all
> have the additional relief valve that the OEM tanks don't have. So
> let's get down to the brass tacks (pun intended). Is the only real issue
here the cost of a new tank?
> Can a refurbished LP tank be just a good and complaint and a new
> one?(or at least be grandfathered in) Do you still have issues with
> stations not wanting to fill a NEW tank? I seems to me that the OEM
> tanks work just fine as long as all the components are in good working
> order....so let's hear from you!!! Do I refurbish or replace???
>
> Peace, Nick
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