Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2015 18:38:47 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Aux battery hardware
In-Reply-To: <0865A28B-F572-44FB-8806-39CA92403F43@comcast.net>
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There are all sorts of options both for battery(s) and the method of isolating and charging. One thing to consider is that charging a battery is in fact another load. The charging current is supplied by the alternator, not the chassis battery. As such you need to look at the complete path all the way from the alternator. The alternator wiring especially from the alternator itself to the starter-battery cable is already taxed even for a stock set up. Using a kit or method that taps off the fuse box (original fridge wiring) not only uses that circuit but also the under sized wring from the battery to the fuse box. This complete path needs an upgrade just to get brighter lights, never mind to support additional battery charging.
Give real thought to what you want use and for how long. If you frequent RV parks and places with shore power you also want to consider an on-board charger-power supply. With this approach or the future addition of solar or other alternative power your control scheme is best served by a voltage controlled automatic relay. Something like the Sure power 1315. (Check that number). Thus when the house battery is being charged the chassis battery will also benefit without adding additional controls.
The wire size and protection has to account for battery charging simultaneous with all loads connected to it. If your fridge is on the house battery you have to consider that, all lighting, Stereo, which may include a power amp, laptop, tablet, heater, fans, whatever. If using an inverter while driving consideration has to be made for that also. Figure 10 amps for every 100 watts to be delivered. Remember that once a relay connects the battery banks together a load larger than your wiring and alternator can supply will then draw down the chassis battery until the relay opens or both batteries equalize. Thus if you have that 800 wat inverter trying to run you microwave al the wiring in the circuit has to handle that load or you need a breaker to shut it down.
The most common battery install for the Westy is the standard Group 41 under the driver's seat. Best bang for the buck. For this 61 amp/Hour battery a 15 A/H charger is ideal. If going to use accessories while charging go for a 20-30 A/H one that is designed to do both. You want designed and listed for use in an RV or Marine application.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Eric Caron
Sent: Friday, October 9, 2015 2:31 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Recommendations for Aux battery hardware
Hi Listers,
I’d like to add a Aux battery to my Westfalia. It did not come with one. the spot behind the driver’s seat is currently a storage area for my battery tender and other odds and ends.
So, Which ket would folks recommend? Which vender? I’ll need good directions as I’ll have to find a assistant to do the install with me. Cal usual VW shops here tell me they will not do any camper equipment work.
So, Which kit from which fender will install fairly easily?
I basically want to run the water pump, refrigerator fan, rear light and radio. a 12 volt adaptor for items would be a plus.
I’ll be watching the other thread about batteries for tips there but I’ll probably just move my current starting battery to that position then look for a new starting battery.
No current plans for solar additions but you never know what I might do years down the road.
Recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Eric Caron
85 GL Auto Westfalia
