from a then motor mount R&R newb perspective.... I left the muffler on. Not sure it's needed but I removed the coolant pump pulley using this type of tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html It was a little tricky to get at some of the mount top nuts but totally doable. Getting those nuts started onto the new mount top stud was also tricky. A flexible magnetic pick up tool is a wise investment and great for this job. IIRC, I used a bottle jack + 2x4 chunk of wood to support drivetrain undid 2 bolts at each end of carrier at frame, then lowered drivetrain *slightly* onto wood blocks at transaxle near flywheel.
Neil. On 12/19/15, Pat Spragge/RFAN <Pat.Spragge@rfan.com> wrote: > I'm looking for best practices info on replacing my 4 rear engine mounts. > Looking at Bentley it shows the mounts attached between the carrier > (moustache bar) and the engine support. I had originally thought that the > way to proceed would be to leave the engine support in place and remove the > carrier bar with the old mounts attached. Now I am not sure if I should... > 1) remove the carrier bar leaving the mounts attached to the engine support > and then remove them separately > or... > 2) remove the carrier bar with the mounts attached and then remove them > from the bar > or... > 3) remove the carrier bar, mounts, and engine support as a unit > or... > 4) someone's better method > > I'd like to avoid removing the cat and muffler if reasonable. > > Thx > Pat > > Sent from my iPad >
-- Neil n Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca> 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy> 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/> Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay> |
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