Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2015 21:24:35 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure light and buzzer.
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_6ZYSPcR=7VTFgrQ-9uB46NNH+-4P26facPvsZSaOqP1Q@mail.gmail.com>
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There is no need for Teflon sealing tape on either of the threads. The crush washer should do the trick. Sealing tape should never be used where pieces could get stuck in small orifices and mess things up. It can do wonders in the hydraulic lifters. If you must a liquid or paste sealant can be used but it should not be needed. The threads on the switch and that adapter are not tapered and again, the sealing washer-gasket will do the job.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2015 8:35 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Oil pressure light and buzzer.
As most know, I was having a problem with them randomly coming on around
2200 rpm. I changed the high pressure switch, and haven't -so far at least
- any repeats of the problem. Description of the procedure follows because I found it necessary to make a special tool to do the job. Hopefully it will save someone a lot of time and aggravation.
As for the oil light/buzzer problem, seems as though changing out the high pressure switch did the trick. So far the light and buzzer has not come on.
I will say it was a bear to change, however. It went like this: loosen the alternator and pull the belt back out of the way; next remove the coolant pump pully - this provides access - sort of - to the switch. Remove the wire from the switch. Weld a 3/4 in. 19 mm - (Wrench size) nut over the socket hole of a standard 15/16 in socket. The socket will now fit over the blade on the switch. Turn the socket with a standard straight wrench. I found I only had room to turn only one flat at a time. Remove switch and replace with new. I found deep well sockets to long and standard sockets to short. The blade connection on the switch interfered with putting the handle in the socket.
All that will get the job done. Don't forget teflon tape on the various threads. The switch screws into an adapter pipe plug, and the plug screws into the case. Both need the teflon to be sure of a seal. The switch should also have an aluminum washer. If not present, get another switch.
Good luck to all who try this.
John
