Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2015 19:35:59 -0800
Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Dreaded water jacket head gasket leak strikes
In-Reply-To: <BAY405-EAS267F67CCFBC1A0C21E0DC5EA0E30@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Thanks Dennis. So, if the cylinder pulls up even a little with the head do I
assume it needs to have the O-ring at the bottom replaced? Can you do that
without taking it off the piston? I'm guessing you need the piston at TDC
to do that.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Haynes [mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2015 5:17 PM
To: 'Stuart MacMillan'; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: RE: Dreaded water jacket head gasket leak strikes
If the engine is really healthy you could try just doing the one side. Do a
compression and leak down test to be sure the head and valves are really
good. As for the corrosion near the gasket don't fret it. No need for it to
be perfect, that is what a suitable gasket sealer is for. The stuff that now
comes in the kits works very well.
To do a quick head removal drain the coolant as much as possible. You only
have to remove the exhaust pipe(s) with a stud in the head. From the factory
one side uses studs. If both sides have bolts leave the pipes in place, just
remove the bolts. Un bolt the intake manifold and lift out of the way. Plan
to get new boots. Then it is just hoses, tin, whatever, remove the rocker
and unbolt the head. Hopefully it will come off the cylinders. Sometimes I
can do a head in 4-5 hours. Sometimes it take 3 times that. Depends o the
exhaust and cylinders being free. If I have to deal with re-sealing the
cylinders that adds about 2-3 hours side.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Stuart MacMillan
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2015 8:05 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Dreaded water jacket head gasket leak strikes
Well, my son's '87 was losing about a pint of coolant every 500 miles, but I
could not find a leak. Today I found it, and it's the right side water
jacket seal. I pressurized the system to 15 psi and it drips one drip every
five minutes or so.
This van is going to get a Subaru engine, but not right now, so what are my
cheap fix options?
1. Barr's Stop Leak (just kidding, but I'm tempted)
2. Just drive it and keep topping it up. It's not a daily driver,
summer only on a few trips, maybe 2000 miles a year. The difficulty with
this is as the system cools down air is drawn in though the leak, and that
limits the amount of coolant that can be pulled back in from the overflow
bottle, so there is a bubble in the expansion tank. This requires the hatch
be opened to top it off. Not a big deal, just a pain when the van is
packed.
3. Replace the seal on this side only, providing the head is
serviceable, which I doubt it is since it's likely corroded. I've heard of
folks using JB Weld and sanding the head smooth, but I can't see that this
is a viable option.
4. Replace the head with a new Go Westy AMC head.
5. Replace both heads with new GW AMC heads, and when he does the
Subaru I buy this engine and put it in my '85. It's a strong runner with
good compression, and only has 145k on it.
When my previous '84 was fixed under partial VW warranty they replaced both
heads even though only one was leaking, and I got another 200k miles out of
that engine with no leaks.
Thanks!
Stuart