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Date:         Sun, 3 Jan 2016 22:43:05 -0600
Reply-To:     Tom Hargrave <thargrav@HIWAAY.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tom Hargrave <thargrav@HIWAAY.NET>
Subject:      Re: Dodged a bullet -- blowed the oil filter right off Long winded
Comments: To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CA+az7_4NYOb4uM158DNqgQL3bxoxyfF1zbA5ban1fZVni8q-cw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Not a Vanagon but a good reference point. I could hear the rings scrub up and down the cylinder walls for about 500 miles after I had it rebuilt by the Harley-Davidson reman program years ago. I ran 20W-50 oil and changed the oil & filter as soon as the sound stopped.

Break-in is more than just seating rings. The high points of the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder walls get scrubbed off as the rings seat, plus all of the other bearing surface high points get smoothed. A good filter should catch everything that might cause a problem and the small particles that get through are small enough to not cause a problem. But your oil filter has an internal bypass valve that will open if it gets clogged and it never hurts to play it safe like your mechanic did.

Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com www.stir-plate.com www.towercooler.com www.grow-sun.com www.raspberryproject.com http://goo.gl/niRzVw

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of John Rodgers Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2016 9:45 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Dodged a bullet -- blowed the oil filter right off Long winded

In year 2000 I had a new engine installed in my 88 GL. It was all new but for the case and crankshaft. The rebuilder was Jim Connel, who is currently building the engine for my 91 Carat. Roger Williams, local oldtime VW man did the installation. Roger broke the engine in thusly:

Straight 30 wt oil - startup and idle 45 minute. Shut down, change oil and filter. Straight 30 wt oil - startup and run at idle up to 1500 rpm for two hours in the shop. No load. Shutdoen. Drain oil and replace filter. Straight 30 wt oil - startup and run on the road for 100 miles. Remain under 50 mph, keep engine rpm under 3000. Change oil to 15W50, change oil filter. Mobil 15W50 for 500 miles, 50 mph rpm less than 3000. Change oil and filter. Mobil One 15W50 1000 miles no rpm limit, change oil and filter.

All the oil changes may not have been necessary, but he made doubly sure all the partcles that break off during run in were removed. Compression has always been the best. Never had a lick of a problem in the compression department for 160,000 miles.

John On Jan 3, 2016 20:44, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I don't wish to start one of those break in oil wars but with today's > oils and good filters most of this is not necessary. At 3,000 miles > those pistons have cycled at least 9,000,000 times. (~3,000 > revolutions per mile in 4th gear X 3,000 miles). If those rings > haven't seated by now they won't get better tomorrow. Also, unless > using a specific break in oil to speed up the "break in) process > modern conventional oils still have a robust anti wear- friction > package so not that much difference there. The varying engine speed > and reduced load thing may be to help form the carbon ridge and seat > the rings in the piston lands. That I have seen in a number of owner's manuals. > > I do believe in lower cost oil for the first fill and a fast change. > Mostly because no matter how hard we try there will be some unwanted > stuff in a rebuilt engine. Also if there is a problem I don't want to > throw away the more expensive stuff. For oil viscosity even on rebuilt

> engines I still pay attention to the original chart. Note that when > you look at oil temperature specifications these engines were labeled > for maximum oil temperature of 168F. I have yet to see any of these > engines run there in summer. 190-210 is about the best I see on any > with an oil temperature gauge. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On > Behalf Of OlRivrRat > Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2016 8:16 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Dodged a bullet -- blowed the oil filter right off Long > winded > > On 3 Jan , 2016, at 4:53 PM, Dennis Jowell wrote: > > Dennis, > What are your thoughts in using Mobil 1 15w-50 in my Porsche 1973 -2.0

> engine ? I have always used 10w -30 regular oil in it. The engine has > about only about 3000 miles on it. It is a rebuilt 2.0 engine. Haven't

> really driven it much. My plan is to work on getting it running again > in the spring. It has sat in my barn for unfortunately several years > after I rebuilt and refinished the body, the engine etc. > > Dennis Jowell > Scotch Hollow Farm > Newbury, Vermont > > > DennisJ > > I would consider that Eng' to be a "NotBrokeInYet" Eng' so > here is My 2cents ~ the BreakIn Routine I Adhere To ~ > > For an H2OBoxer ~ Or Other OldTech Eng' > > Conventional/Dino 5w30 ~ 1st Hour ~ then drain it > 1000-3000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > Conventional/Dino 5w30 ~ 0 - 1000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > Conventional/Dino 5w30 ~ 1000 - 2000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > Conventional/Dino 5w40 ~ 2000 - 4000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > Conventional/Dino 5w40 ~ 4000 - 7000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4400RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > Conventional/Dino 5w40 ~ 7000 - 10000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4800RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > FullSynthetic 0w40 or 5w40 ~ 10000 - 14000 & every 4K > after that until My OilPressureGauge tells me I might want to think > about > > Upping to a > *w50 or an Eng'Rebuild > > For a ModernEng' ~ Subi or TheLike ~ > > Same as Above Up To ~ 2000 > > Conventional/Dino 5w30 ~ 2000 - 4000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > Conventional/Dino 5w30 ~ 4000 - 7000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4400RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > Conventional/Dino 5w30 ~ 7000 - 10000 Miles ~ then drain it > Not over 4800RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long > > FullSynthetic 0w30 or 5w30 ~ 10000 - 14000 & every 4K > after that until My OilPressureGauge tells me I might want to think > about > > Upping to a > *w40 or an Eng'Rebuild > > > ALSO ~ Since that Eng' HasNot been Run in a while I would > Drain the OldOil Before Any Attempt to Start It Up ~ > > > ORR ~ DeanB > ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7294 / Virus Database: 4489/11297 - Release Date: 12/31/15


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