Date:         Fri, 1 Jan 2016 16:39:40 -0500
Reply-To:     frankgrun@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Frank Grunthaner <frankgrun@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Wondering about coolant physics
Comments: To: OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET
In-Reply-To:  <7257DE53-7B0C-4B29-B043-ACDEC1F95FEA@COMCAST.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Larry,


I posted the details to the list several eons ago and pictures were (I believe) posted on Alistair Bell's web site. You should be able to find the details with an archive search on my email address. In summary, with my '82 diesel conversions, I switched the primary coolant reservoir to the '83 version, added a coolant level sensor and then tapped the coolant level sensor to add a 1/8" NPT fitting going to 1/8" compression tube. In series with the compression tube fitting, I added a miniature ball valve for a shutoff function and then ran 1/8" nylon tubing to the gearshift pass-through area. I cut a 1/2" diameter hole to the side of the gearshift hole and brought the nylon tube through a grommet to the dash area. I used a triple loop of the nylon tube for slack, added a miniature brass tee-valve (2-way) to serve as a bleed port and connected everything to the gauge set. In the heater cover, I mounted a set of gauges including two Volt meters (one for the alternator circuit and one to monitor the secondary RV battery for the camper), an oil pressure gauge and an oil temperature gauge and finally a water temperature gauge. As you can see, I like my gauges. In any case, I originally used VDO gauges and later switched to digital Speedhut gauges with their 270 degree display.  For using the coolant pressure gauge, I fired up the engine, let it get to operating temperature and bled the line. With the nylon tubing, it was easy to see any bubbles in the line and then easy to eliminate them. Anytime I need to access the coolant system, I turn off the shutoff valve at the reservoir, maintaining the liquid circuit. Since the boost gauge is operating in the liquid hydraulic mode, the pressure and vacuum response is instantaneous. The fitting in the coolant level sensor includes a nylon extension that brings the inlet to the same depth as the bottom of the sensing electrodes. Been running this system for more than 25 years and the nylon has remained flexible with no leaks. 


Hope this helps,


Frank Grunthaner



-----Original Message-----
From: OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
To: Frank Grunthaner <frankgrun@AOL.COM>
Cc: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Fri, Jan 1, 2016 12:57 pm
Subject: Re: Wondering about coolant physics

		Frank

	Can you give a More Detailed Explain' of How/Where you did this install ~ 

&Or ~ Post a Link to some Pic's ~

						ORR ~ DeanB

On 1 Jan , 2016, at 12:51 PM, Frank Grunthaner wrote:

> Is use a mechanical boost gauge mounted into the heater cover. Works like a charm, showing vacuum overnight and system pressure when underway! Good for low coolant diagnosis and cap seal issues.
> 
> Frank Grunthaner
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jan 1, 2016, at 10:46 AM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
>> 
>>      Larry
>> 
>>       A Boost Gauge might work ~
>> 
>> 
>>> On 1 Jan , 2016, at 11:17 AM, Larry Alofs wrote:
>>> 
>>> Once, a few years ago, someone on this list said that he had a coolant
>>> pressure gauge on his dash.. I have wanted one ever since, but have not run
>>> across a suitable gauge that would read a reasonable amount of both
>>> pressure and vacuum.  I would also need to find or make a suitable fitting
>>> to attach to the top of the radiator (banjo bolt?).  Maybe some day...
>>> 
>>> Larry A.