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Date:         Tue, 29 Mar 2016 18:46:32 -0700
Reply-To:     Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Oily Oily Clutch. FW O Ring Failure? and: Problem Solved? (
              clutch disk hanging up )
Comments: To: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAB2RwfgDSWi0507w_-BFXGiJQ7+majB9SHuAjTUhxW64Ya0LgA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

It's really not necessary to check the endplay on your engine, but if you want to mess around you'll need a clamp-on dial indicator to do it right. Our friends at HF have one that will work: http://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html If it is out of spec, you'll also need a supply of shims!

Put it back together and forget about it.

Stuart

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Neil N Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 6:19 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Oily Oily Clutch. FW O Ring Failure? and: Problem Solved? ( clutch disk hanging up )

Great info. Thanks Scott.

And one other thing I'm learning of; wear at flywheel were it meets the engine oil seal.

The clutch was grabbing fine and I didn't notice any real amount of shudder when engaging the clutch unless backing up in reverse. I'm tempted to take some emery cloth to the flywheel, clean it up, and use flywheel as is.

There wasn't any thread locker on bolts; the threads were pretty oily. But. No oil present at forward face of flywheel. (forward = toward vehicle front) i.e. no oil leaking out past bolt heads. The flywheel O ring felt old and was compressed flush. I'm replacing that O ring.

I understand what you mean re: bearing check. I recall those locating pins from my Beetle days.

Neil.

On 3/29/16, SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott ) <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > was there some form of a good Threader Locker ( I use blue lock-tite )

> on the flywheel bolt threads ? > Mandatory IMO. > also ...o-ring on the inner circumference of the flywheel .. > the one that seals flywheel to crankshaft ....is that o-ring there > and supple and working ? > > if checking end play ...do that first , before undoing flywheel bolts. > Tricky to do without a dial gauge, > when it is around .004" or a tiny bit more like it should be, it 'feels' > like barely any. > If it's anything 'noticeable' like say 10 to 15 thousandths, that's > excessive. > > a trick I like to do to check if the rear main bearing is tight in the

> case is..... > assemble flywheel onto crankshaft with too many shims ..so it's locked

> to the crank. > then see if crank turns a tiny bit...like 1/8th inch rotation. > if rear main brg is solidly clamped by the case, there won't be any > flywheel rotation. > if it's loose...the rear main brg will rotate slightly on the locating pin. > It 'better not' be loose at all ! > > of course, excessive oil clearance between crank and rear main bearing

> could allow enough oil to overwhelm the rear main seal and other > sealing things there. > > on your pilot brg picture.. > I can't tell exactly what you've got, but I can say I've seen dozens > of pilot bearings with the felt seal Not in place ..which lets the > pilot brg little rollers get all clutch-dusty and fail before too long. > there is a little metal ring that holds that felt seal in place.. > many are probably lost on the floor of machine shops ...if I recall > correctly, it's pressed into the flywheel, and needs to be removed to > surface the flywheel, then they get forgotten about. > > a slick upgrade is use the 82 diesel vanagon pilot bearing .. > which as a 'real' rubber lip seal. > The flywheel needs to be modified slightly to allow clearance for the > brg as it sticks out of the crank just a tiny bit. > > 'sticking' clutch is often worn out/shot pilot bearing. > > oh yeah ...I also lube the cross shaft and all pivot points, including

> ends of the cross shaft until it pivots very freely .. > and all contact points..the guide sleeve for the TOB. > the ends of the fingers ..if it is a sliding or moving surface, I lube

> it. I use 'black slimy' moly grease for that, a tiny bit on the clutch

> splines, and some high quality synthetic grease on the pilot bearing. > > Often I just clean up the flywheel surface with waterproof sand paper > and carb cleaner. > > if it's badly glazed, or overheated..or cracked..then it needs real > machine shop surfacing, but I can't even think of the last clutch I > had to do that on. > > 'the ones' to use, IMO are the Sachs kit... > they are rebuilt in Mexico...but I love 'em. > I would not use a Luk or anything else...Sachs only. > > I also bleed fresh brake fluid into the clutch slave cylinder, and I > lube ALL pivot points there too. > > really fussing over every possible detail...is fun, and takes a little

> while. > this is One place you really don't want to just 'slap it together.' > > Scott > > -- Neil n

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