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Date:         Wed, 30 Mar 2016 18:03:35 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Oily Oily Clutch. FW O Ring Failure? and: Problem Solved? (
              clutch disk hanging up )
Comments: To: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAB2RwfgZ--B03t+tHAXXvB42Qa2Pgkv_zZAfh0iYUWOxRSvp+g@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Torque to some value plus some additional turn is not always indicative of a torque to yield or what is often known as a stretch screw or bolt. The torque to some value and then some additional turn is done to reduce the variances in friction from affecting the final clamp load. Plating, thread condition, type of lubricant, etc will all have an effect on that clamping load. Even locking compounds have an effect. Usually they require an increase in torque to achieve a given clamp load. All threaded fasteners rely on some level of them either stretching or the material being clamped being compressed. Think of a screw thread as a wrapped incline plane. Now think of what happens when you use a wedge door stop. The stop get crushed or pushed down into the softer floor of the door edge gets bent. If none of those occur the stop usually just slides.

Simply the basic screw or bolt applications are normal tightening, torque to some value and turn, torque to stretch and the scary one is torque to yield. Yes this is extremely simplistic.

For the flywheel bolts these are extremely critical fasteners. The assembly relies on clamp and shear load to keep that flywheel in place. The threads in the crank get some level of deformation but it is not practical to replace them every time the flywheel is removed. The bolts are easily replaced and at least having new threads on the one part will help to provide the best connection possible.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Neil N Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 1:11 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Oily Oily Clutch. FW O Ring Failure? and: Problem Solved? ( clutch disk hanging up )

Thanks Dennis. I now see the note in Bentley about "always replace" re flywheel bolts. I assume these bolts are stretch to yield bolts? (add 1/4 turn) They also say "... install with locking compound" as per Scotts comment.

So many details but crucial parts. Thankfully, time is on my side with this project.

Thanks for pointer on KACO. Hadn't heard of them but I think I'm on the trailing edge of research here. LOL

KACO link:

http://www.stl.com.my/catalog/oil-seal-rotary-seal2679.html?page=1

Neil.

On 3/30/16, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote: > The very best seals so far have been from KACO. They are a white > silicon type material. For the o-ring inside the flywheel I find that > ones in the engine kits are not quite right. Get it from the dealer if still possible. > The flywheel to crank bolts are onetime items and should be replaced. > Setting the end play is critical. > > Dennis > > Sorry for being short on words. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On > Behalf Of Neil N > Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 9:53 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Oily Oily Clutch. FW O Ring Failure? and: Problem Solved?

> ( clutch disk hanging up ) > > Right. Yes. Have read the gowesty article on those seals. Can't recall

> brand I bought locally. We'll find out. re: flywheel sealing surface. > At very least I find it very interesting that the seal actually > contacts the flywheel. Unless I'm misunderstanding things. > > Stuart: I get what you're saying but for me, learning to measure crank

> end play is something I'd like to do. Thanks for link to the gauge. > Maybe something similar > is available up here in Vancouver. > > Neil. > > On 3/29/16, SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott ) > <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> > wrote: > >> reminds me of another thing. >> Type of rear main seal. >> black and brown ones ...not good for long in my experience. >> >> the best ones are either soft nice red rubber.. >> or a red rubber lip on a black Rear Main Seal. >> >> haven't had a problem with the sealing surface on the flywheel >> wearing much .. > > -- > Neil n > > Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca> > > 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy> > > 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical > <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/> > > Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay> >

-- Neil n

Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca>

1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy>

1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>

Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>


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