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Date:         Mon, 4 Apr 2016 15:31:42 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: 1. Which 2.1 muffler? (6)
Comments: To: Paul van Dyck <plvandyck@MSN.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <BLU437-SMTP50A552A247DC6F43487B1BB59D0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

From the factory only two of the exhaust ports had studs. The other two were screws. The studs were low quality P.C. 4.8 stuff with no or that black oxide coating so they immediately became stuck in the heads. I am still mixed as to whether suds with nuts or just screws is the better approach. The advantage of studs and nuts is that with just a little torch work the nuts will be easily removed. With screws removing the lower tin is much easier and if a head needs to be removed the exhaust can be left in place. I do like to use stainless as there will always be a way gab it with a wrench. I have had stainless become one with both the heads and the exhaust flanges and once you break a head off it is much harder to drill out and save the head. I also like using the Bellville washers for attaching the flanges as this helps keep the gaskets tight. Nickel based anti-seize is your best friend with all stainless steel fasteners.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Paul van Dyck Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 10:15 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 1. Which 2.1 muffler? (6)

I just had my mechanic install the GW SS complete exhaust system on my 2.1 Syncro. He said everything was great except he had to drill and tap every engine stud(8 of them). Previous system was a steel S&S header system. It rotted out completely but not sure if it caused the stud issues. Fyi- Never driven on salt. Might want to make time or $ allowances for any stud issues.

Paul


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