Date:         Mon, 4 Apr 2016 15:31:42 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: 1. Which 2.1 muffler? (6)
Comments: To: Paul van Dyck <plvandyck@MSN.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <BLU437-SMTP50A552A247DC6F43487B1BB59D0@phx.gbl>
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From the factory only two of the exhaust ports had studs. The other two were
screws. The studs were low quality P.C. 4.8 stuff with no or that black
oxide coating so they immediately became stuck in the heads. I am still
mixed as to whether suds with nuts or just screws is the better approach.
The advantage of studs and nuts is that with just a little torch work the
nuts will be easily removed. With screws removing the lower tin is much
easier and if a head needs to be removed the exhaust can be left in place. I
do like to use stainless as there will always be a way gab it with a wrench.
I have had stainless become one with both the heads and the exhaust flanges
and once you break a head off it is much harder to drill out and save the
head. I also like using the Bellville washers for attaching the flanges as
this helps keep the gaskets tight. Nickel based anti-seize is your best
friend with all stainless steel fasteners.

Dennis


-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Paul van Dyck
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 10:15 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: 1. Which 2.1 muffler? (6)

I just had my mechanic install the GW SS complete exhaust system on my 2.1
Syncro. He said everything was great except he had to drill and tap every
engine stud(8 of them). Previous system was a steel S&S header system. It
rotted out completely but not sure if it caused the stud issues. Fyi- Never
driven on salt. Might want to make time or $ allowances for any stud issues.

Paul