Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 12:04:33 -1000
Reply-To: "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: 1. Which 2.1 muffler? (6)
In-Reply-To: <BAY405-EAS1395179FCF417C35929F9B4A09D0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
my methods...
the slight advantage of bolts is, being able to 'sneak in' a new exhaust
port gasket if needed,
or leaving the ehxuast mostly along if doing a head.
on the other hand..I vastly prefer to heat a nut on a stud to remove it.
re the lower push rod covers..the factory method of 'closed tabs' at
both ends on the tops of the overs ..no need for that at all. Major
overkill. See below.
And you do want to be able to get the left one off easily to access the
oil pressure switch under there .
And these days when I put an engine together, I run a metal line up to
the forward side of the left head, and put my oil pressure switch there,
and often an oil pressure gauge sender too.
on those tabs..I cut them open on top, so I only have to loosen a nut or
bolt up there, to slide the tab off.
I prefer them to have only one upper tab...as the two lower bolts into
the case, and one upper tab are plenty to keep that piece in place. It's
not like they are trying to fall off or anything.
I invest a lot of energy into making things easy and straighforward to
work on.
Not a big fan of stainless too often.
Some places sure, but I would hate for example, to drop a stainless
steel washer into some place and not be able to use a magnet to fish it
out. I'm always thinking about making working on it easy and
practical. So 'next time' ..it's really easy.
Scott
On 4/4/2016 9:31 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> >From the factory only two of the exhaust ports had studs. The other two were
> screws. The studs were low quality P.C. 4.8 stuff with no or that black
> oxide coating so they immediately became stuck in the heads. I am still
> mixed as to whether suds with nuts or just screws is the better approach.
> The advantage of studs and nuts is that with just a little torch work the
> nuts will be easily removed. With screws removing the lower tin is much
> easier and if a head needs to be removed the exhaust can be left in place. I
> do like to use stainless as there will always be a way gab it with a wrench.
> I have had stainless become one with both the heads and the exhaust flanges
> and once you break a head off it is much harder to drill out and save the
> head. I also like using the Bellville washers for attaching the flanges as
> this helps keep the gaskets tight. Nickel based anti-seize is your best
> friend with all stainless steel fasteners.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Paul van Dyck
> Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 10:15 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: 1. Which 2.1 muffler? (6)
>
> I just had my mechanic install the GW SS complete exhaust system on my 2.1
> Syncro. He said everything was great except he had to drill and tap every
> engine stud(8 of them). Previous system was a steel S&S header system. It
> rotted out completely but not sure if it caused the stud issues. Fyi- Never
> driven on salt. Might want to make time or $ allowances for any stud issues.
>
> Paul
>
